Hanging Hand Tool Cabinet

[pkinneb]

Started working on my Pekovich designed hand tool cabinet. I'll be using his plans off of FineWoodworking.com with some changes like size, layout, etc

First up was to get an idea on dimension's. Using a piece of plywood I started laying things out to get an idea on size and whether or not I would need to alter the plans for my needs. After going through this process I decided to go a couple inches wider and 4" taller then the plans.

Rough idea on the plane till

I think I will center the till and have swing out saw storage (Cosman design) on the right side and hand drills on the left

I will also have drawers on both sides not thinking I will need as much hand plane space as the design has.

The upper portion will house a lot of my chair tools 

And the doors will be home to my chisels, rasps, layout tools, etc

Since I do not have any planes that wont fit in the space above the lower plane storage and the till I am going to make that a bit wider like 3 1/2 - 4" and put a set of tambor doors that will meet in the middle...just becuase I have always wanted to make tambor doors but have never had a project that would look good with them

With the design laid out it was time to pull out the wood. I have a lot of ash so that's what I'm going to use for this project. It's been in the finish room which is why some of it looks gray LOL

 

 

[fcschoenthal]

Laying stuff out and trying to figure out where to put it (while still allowing room for future toys) is always the hardest part.

I really like the look of hand tool cabinets and looked longingly at this one when Mike published it.

Looking forward to seeing your progress.

[Mark J]

Not that you really can, but have you made any "future proofing"?

[pkinneb]

On 3/7/2025 at 8:21 AM, Mark J said:

Not that you really can, but have you made any "future proofing"?

Yes and no. So yes there will be extra space but honestly as I was pulling stuff out I'm like I rarely use that should I keep it? So I have started reevaluating (selling) some stuff...a plane here a spokeshave there... ultimately it will fit my needs...I think 

Lets cut some stock...

First I cut a straight edge on a couple pieces unfortunately had to do it in the shop as its cold out.

With everything rough milled for the cabinet and doors I let it rest for a few days.

I did need to glue up one panel for the top , bottom, or shelf haven't decided yet

After a few days I final milled everything to size

Next up we'll cut some dovetails using both power and hand tools.

 

[Botch]

This makes me smile and I'm following closely.  

I built my wall-hanging handtool chest maybe 27 years ago.  Before starting I decided to "future-proof" the build by purchasing all the remaining tools I wanted (and I can hear the laughter on the forum!); the main one was a #7 jointer plane, and I spaced out the rest of the back wall based on it.  One swinging door held all my chisels, it had a bit of extra room but it's full now; the other door held all my measuring tools, it still has some open space.  

Looking forward to watching your build!  

[Von]

Looking forward to this!

[Coop]

This is going to be a cool and envious build! 

[gee-dub]

Really good stuff. My wall mounted plane till evolved to having two clamshell wings. It is not as attractive as Michael’s but I have enjoyed having it for many years. Making sure you have some flexibility for growth and changes will extend the lifetime. These are fun and exciting builds. I am looking forward to the ride-along. Thanks for taking us along.

[pkinneb]

Time to cut some dovetails 

First up decide what goes where  

With that decided time for some layout. I'll be cutting these DT's at the TS using a blade ground to 7.5 degrees so I need to get that set up as well. I also knocked out a sled for this since the sides are long I used two miter gauges to keep things square.

First up using a marking gauge I marked both ends of the side panels front and back only. I also marked a test piece for blade set up.

With that done I laid out for the tails which will be cut at the TS. I wanted 5 evenly spaced pins so using a mark at the beginning and end I took a ruler and slid it out so 0 was at the first tick and 10 was the last tick then put a mark every 2"s and with that I had 5 evenly spaced tails. Using the marked board I made ticks on the sled this lets me cut them all while only marking one.

Rinse and repeat (the door sides had a separate layout but the same process as the case sides)

Next up was to clean up the tails. first I used a fret saw to cut the majority of the waste and then used a chisel to clean them up.

Next up I'll be working on the pins.

[Coop]

Looking mighty fine! On your first post, pic number 6, what is the wooden cross shaped tool in the middle? 

[gee-dub]

I’m going with a tapered reamer(?).

[pkinneb]

On 3/8/2025 at 7:38 PM, Coop said:

Looking mighty fine! On your first post, pic number 6, what is the wooden cross shaped tool in the middle? 

As @gee-dub mention that's a reamer and the top right is a taper plane, both chair making tools. The tapers match so you ream the hole for the legs, arms, etc with the reamer and use the taper plane to taper the leg, arm post, etc to match.

[pkinneb]

Ok time to cut the pins. I use Mike Pekovich's blue tape trick, it really helps with my bad eyes. First up apply the blue tape to the end of the top and bottom panel ends.

Next and the most important task is to align everything. I use a light underneath (thanks @gee-dub the light you told me about for the spray room works great here as well) I also use a square to line up the edge

Shot showing square

Here you can see the light just barely (I actually want it a bit tighter but took this so you could get the jest)

Then using a marking knife mark each pin, sorry missed getting a pic of that. With that done I moved the board to the moxon vise to cut the joint. Just align the saw to the edge of the tape and cut, the straighter the better.

Now to clean them up I cutout most of the waste at the bandsaw

Then head back to the bench and using a jig I made for holding the panels I get every thing squared up and flush.

Then using a router and a spiral bit set to the baseline (very important to have the panel and bit adjusted to cut right at the baseline) I router out the waste

All that's left is to clean up the wings with a knife and sharp chisel

And with that we're ready to fit the top and bottom panels to the doors. First task use a pencil to put a little lead on the inside outer edge of the tails, this will let me know where I need to trim.

You can see the lead transfer in this pic

Getting closer

Not perfect but not bad either

By using the TS to cut the tails and the router to cut the baseline you make getting nice looking DT's much much simpler, especially in hardwoods. With that the main box is coming together. I should note the DT's will be about a 1/32" proud by design.

Next up is to cut the shelf through tenons.

 

 

[fcschoenthal]

I've used the blue tape, but never the router for the square & flat bottoms. I've always chopped them out, hence why I don't do many dovetails. I'll have to give it a shot.

[pkinneb]

Time to cut the shelf tenons. First up some layout, I mark up from the bottom of the sides and mark the shelf location.

Then using the same marking gauge setup from the DT's I mark the shelf all the way around on both ends

With that complete I layout the three tenons marking the waste side

After 5 min spent adjusting my blade insert to be flush with the TS table I cut a test cut using what I thought was a flat bottom blade  Ok quick blade change, now we have an actual flat bottom blade in the saw, and finally after a minor adjustment I am good to cut the tenons.

Using a sled tenons are cut

Then using a rip fence I cut a shallow shoulder on each face (more on why later)

Then at the BS I clean up the bulk of the waste

Check layout one more time

Out of time for tonight but next up I will clean up the tenons with a chisel before marking and cutting the mortises in the case sides.

 

 

[fcschoenthal]

On 3/11/2025 at 6:17 PM, pkinneb said:

I cut a shallow shoulder on each face

I do the same thing for anything like this, even dados. I need all the help I can get making sure the shoulder is crisp.

[pkinneb]

I started out by following Pekovich on the layout. First mark across the back of both sides, then marked a base line. Once that's done he used the shelf itself to mark the other three sides of the tenons by holding it on the side while using a marking knife to mark around the tenons. I found this to be extremely difficult and frustrating as I couldn't keep anything in position so I changed tactics on the other side.

With the mortises marked I went to the drill press to hog out the waste.

With the majority of the waste drilled out I grabbed a chisel and started cleaning them up 

It didn't take long before I grabbed a mortise chisel, in this ash, it worked much better

Almost....

Not terrible but not great either

At this point I decided I needed to mark the mortises differently and so with this side I set a combination square to the line and then cut them on each side before moving on. This worked much better. While the result was a minor improvement the frustration was much much less and I consider that a big win

With the done I need to cut out the back of each side to receive the 1/2" BB back panel, cut the mortises for the hinges, and the case will be ready for glue up. Hope to get more done tomorrow but we'll see with tax deadlines quickly approaching pretty busy in my business.

 

[Coop]

I think both sides look mighty tite! 

[roughsawn]

Looks great, Paul. I would have just run a few screws in from the sides.

You're out of my league, too.

[Mark J]

15 hours ago, pkinneb said:

pretty busy in my business.

I thought you'd retired?  

[pkinneb]

On 3/16/2025 at 8:39 AM, Mark J said:

I thought you'd retired?  

No I am winding down but still put in about 60 hrs a week between the two positions. Getting closer probably a couple more years but we shall see.

[pkinneb]

First up today was to put a groove in the back of both sides for the back panel. I cut these at the table saw with a rip blade, one cut laying down and one on end. Here is my test piece. With that good I made the cuts on the sides.

Then cleaned them up quick with a hand plan

Next it was time to cut the mortises for the door hinges

I started by cutting a spacer the width of the hinge minus the TS blade

Then it was time to set up the sled and do a test cut. I clamped a stop block to the right of the blade about 6" then put the spacer and a test piece in with another stop block to the left. The I removed the spacer, cut through on both ends, and finally slowly slid the board back and forth across the blade to make the mortice.

That'll work

Now I set up the sled with a long fence and started cutting the sides of the case and the doors. I held the side in place with a quick clamp while I clamped the second stop block in place.

I used a piece of blue tape on the spacer to dial in the fit

That'll work

Here is what it looks like with both pieces

While this process works well it makes a heck of a mess of fine dust that even decent DC doesn't really help with

Next up I need to clean up the panels.

First I planed the edges

Then it was time to tackle some dents I had caused using the side of a rubber mallet to take parts apart while cutting the dovetails not realizing I was marring the sh$% out of the panels.

Time for a little steam and a damp towel

I also head a couple dings on the ends and while I knew I probably couldn't totally repair them wanted to try and make them better at least.

Not perfect but definitely better

...and another, two on the edges and two down further and in a bit (the handheld lamp I bought for finishing a couple weeks back came in handy here as well.)

Much better

Then sanded the sides 

I used a plane to break the edge of the front of the shelf as I won't be able to get to it after glue up

One tip always mark your parts, in a placed that won't be seen, to keep things straight at glue up

Ran out of time but still need to clean up the ends and add small chamfers in a few spots

 

Once that's done the case parts will be ready for a quick coat of shellac before glue up.

 

[Coop]

That’s some fine looking pieces!