roughsawn Posted April 15 Report Posted April 15 I'm building a bookcase out of hardwood (oak). I will use stopped dado's to join the shelf to the sides, and the sides to the top. Will there be any problem with wood movement, and such, with gluing the ends of the shelf to the sides? The customer does not want screws coming in from the sides...for appearance sake. No back at this time. So I am slightly concerned with racking. It's a horizontal bookcase, with a simple top, and one bottom shelf 2" above the floor. (56" wide, 12" deep, 16" tall) Will racking, or wood movement be an issue if glued properly. Quote
Beechwood Chip Posted April 15 Report Posted April 15 With no back, as long as the grain direction is the same on all pieces, wood movement should not be an issue. Picture all the pieces expanding and contracting across the grain - as long as they are all expanding and contracting front to back, they should all move together. With no back you'll have racking problems unless you have some other method to prevent it. Especially since, at 16" tall, someone is going to sit or stand on it at some point. How thick is your stock? 2 Quote
legenddc Posted April 15 Report Posted April 15 If the sides, shelf and top all have the wood in the same direction than it should all move together. No back? Could you at least get a board vertically under the top at the back and under the bottom shelf? 2 Quote
Beechwood Chip Posted April 15 Report Posted April 15 If you absolutely can't add a full or partial back or diagonal bracing, then I'd screw in these sorts of brackets everywhere. Quote
roughsawn Posted April 15 Author Report Posted April 15 Material will be 1"-1-1/16" thick. Instead of 1/8" dado's, I think I'll run with 1/4" deep...as I have plenty of material to work with. Yes, all the grain on all the boards will be running in the same direction. I'd still like to add screws and plugs to the shelf. 1 Quote
roughsawn Posted April 15 Author Report Posted April 15 On 4/15/2025 at 2:28 PM, legenddc said: If the sides, shelf and top all have the wood in the same direction than it should all move together. No back? Could you at least get a board vertically under the top at the back and under the bottom shelf? Good Idea. Maybe a 2" strip. That would help, and probably be invisible from above. 2 Quote
Popular Post roughsawn Posted April 15 Author Popular Post Report Posted April 15 Good suggestion, legend. I just talked to the boss. I'll add a 2" strip across the back of the underneath of the top, and under the bottom shelf. Running the whole length, horizontally. Maybe I'll counterbore some holes, and come up from the bottom into the top and bottom shelf. Pocket holes and screws aren't out of the equation either. Out of sight, of course. Should be plenty stout. Thanks again! 3 Quote
Coop Posted April 16 Report Posted April 16 I think pocket screws are an excellent idea. Just out of curiosity, why is the customer adamant about no back? Maybe so he can access the contents from both sides? 1/4” ply recessed in rabbets will go a long way to prevent racking. 1 Quote
roughsawn Posted April 16 Author Report Posted April 16 Going in a new addition with knotty pine all the way to the floor. Kind of rustic. I guess they want to see the wall behind it? I think they kind of want to keep it minimalistic. And new hardwood floor. I think it will tie in better this way. No prob, I can make it work. 1" material, 1/4" deep stopped dado's, a little glue, and some inconspicuous bracing, and we will be all set. 2 Quote
curlyoak Posted April 20 Report Posted April 20 I glue and screw. I hide the screws with a flat grain plug. Nobody complains. Quote
roughsawn Posted April 20 Author Report Posted April 20 I agree curly. I've been thinking about this alot. Maybe too much. I'm going to run it past him again. I'm building furniture that stays together, and lasts for generations. Not falls apart. Thanks for that. 1 Quote
gee-dub Posted April 20 Report Posted April 20 With no back you could use sliding dovetails for a couple of the fixed shelves and just glue the front 2-3 inches. I've done this with breadboards to maintain the front elevations throughout the year. Things move at the rear. The spline is just decorative. I've also tried this with cabinet sides. 11 years on this one and still working 1 Quote
Mark J Posted April 20 Report Posted April 20 3 hours ago, roughsawn said: .... I'm building furniture that stays together, and lasts for generations. Not falls apart. This. Quote
roughsawn Posted April 22 Author Report Posted April 22 I agree 100%. They are both adamant that it does not have a back. So I'm accommodating them. I've explained everything. Now I just build it, and move on. gee-man, sliding dovetails were an option...but without a back, I believe glued, screwed, and plugs will give me the most strength. Quote
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted April 22 Popular Post Report Posted April 22 If you can talk them into adding aprons under the bottom shelf (front and back) and maybe setting that bottom shelf just a touch higher off the floor, it will add considerable strength. That still leaves the shelves open to see through, and adds a bit of visual weight to the design. Not as good as a full back, but waaaaay better than just shelves in stopped dadoes. 4 Quote
roughsawn Posted April 22 Author Report Posted April 22 On 4/21/2025 at 7:05 PM, Mark J said: Steel brackets, too? No, I don't think so. I believe the glued and screwed dados will be enough. Especially with 1" oak. 1 Quote
Beechwood Chip Posted April 22 Report Posted April 22 On 4/22/2025 at 8:11 AM, roughsawn said: No, I don't think so. I believe the glued and screwed dados will be enough. Especially with 1" oak. As long as people are gentle when they sit on it. Will it be near an entrance, where people might sit to take off / put on their shoes? Quote
Popular Post Coop Posted April 23 Popular Post Report Posted April 23 Friends that sit on tables and bookcases should find another place to plop their butts or stay home. 2 1 Quote
Popular Post fcschoenthal Posted April 23 Popular Post Report Posted April 23 My thought is that you build it the best you can with the constraints that you've been given. I think you've done your best to advise of potential pitfalls. I hate to say it, but if something does happen with it, you can redo it, but certainly not under a warranty status. You can then add the back or supports or whatever is required, I'm sure with a lot less resistance. Remember, the customer is always right, until they aren't. 3 Quote
Beechwood Chip Posted April 23 Report Posted April 23 On 4/22/2025 at 9:50 PM, Coop said: Friends that sit on tables and bookcases should find another place to plop their butts or stay home. I was picturing 16" tall, and to me that's not a bookcase, it's a bench. Come to think of it, if it's not a bench, why is it so low? Just curious. Quote
Popular Post Coop Posted April 23 Popular Post Report Posted April 23 “Ours is not to reason why, …..” ” 2 1 Quote
BillyJack Posted April 24 Report Posted April 24 Bottom line….. If you are building this, you build it correctly If they are building this, then build it how they want it and walk away.. 1 Quote
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