Filling in hinge mortises


Recommended Posts

I am removing a door between the mudroom and the rest of the house. I need to fill in the hinge mortises on the mdf door jamb. I have seen the following online suggestions but would like to know which you all prefer and why.

Auto body filler

drywall mud

wood shims

epoxy

Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty

Thanks everyone - Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are painting it, auto body filler. It will fill into the screw holes, becomes rock hard, easy to sand, takes paint very well. Take a piece of scrap, put packing tape on it, put a good pile of Bondo on it and press it against the hinge mortise; you'll get squeeze-out (and want to) so have a drop cloth. Then do something to keep the wood there for 30 minutes until the Bondo sets... what I've used (not for hinge mortises but moving damage to the lower casing) is one of those spring-loaded curtain rods. A bit of tape to keep the wood from sliding down then the curtain rod to press it against the jamb. Big shaping can be done with a chisel and later when it's harder, use a sander to feather it in before painting. It's pretty fast. If you do the top mortise first, the middle one can be in the spring setting while you shape the top one.

Drywall mud has no strength unless they mean the cured type, but even then it is leagues weaker than Bondo.

Wood shims would be a pain in the butt to size, glue, then fill the cracks with what?

Epoxy... Bondo is epoxy with a polyester filler; due to that it is easily shaped and sanded; epoxy is not (plus this solution would cost you considerably more)

Can't speak for the Rock Hard putty. Sounds similar to 2-part cured drywall mud, which will work, too, but not as strong as Bondo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think Paul-Marcel has the right idea. You can also buy a similar material called Bondo Home Solutions All-Purpose Putty. I've used both and they behave about the same.

I would vote against the Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It isn't very good for building up thick chunks like you're talking about, and it shrinks when it cures, so you'd probably have to apply two or three layers before you were done.

-- Russ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually, Russ brings up a good point. What the heck is the difference between the home solutions putty and regular Bondo? I've used both, separately so unable to compare side to side. Smell the same, work the same, heat up the same, but there's a price difference. I think the only visual difference is that Bondo's hardener is pink, which I kinda like to know it's mixed enough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would have scoffed at the bondo thing until recently when I was helping a friend do some repairs on an apartment he owns. Had some major holes to fill in some areas that would see high traffic. The areas were like the one you are talking about. The stuff works like a charm took pain with no prob and is some kind of hard. It was fairly easy to shape as it set up a bit and to sand after it dried some.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my opinion you're all missing the obvious. My recommendation as an architect is that you should tear out the MDF trim and replace it with a stained and cleared hardwood casing. You should also use this project to justify the purchase of additional tools and consider it the first step of an excuse to re-trim the rest of the house. LOL.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I am removing a door between the mudroom and the rest of the house. I need to fill in the hinge mortises on the mdf door jamb. I have seen the following online suggestions but would like to know which you all prefer and why.

Auto body filler

drywall mud

wood shims

epoxy

Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty

Thanks everyone - Jim

damage to the s

Bondo for sure. Love the stuff. I have a rental wit 5 hollow core flat interior doors, that all had damage to the skins. Some punched, or kicked. I pulled the broken, pushed in skin material out, so it was near the surface, and used a bunch of CA glue to glue it together. A coat of bondo, and sanding, and it looked new.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

Thanhs to the person that said to go to a hobby store and purchase 3/32 basswood and cut a filler piece.

i did this procedure and it was a no-brainer that 100% hid the 3 exposes mortises.

1. I bought 3/32 basswood board at Home Depot - size 3" x 24" - cost $1.99

2. I laid the hinge on the bass board and drew around the non-pin sides

3. I cut out the filler board with a box knife

4. I filed the edges slightly until the board fit snugly into the mortise hole.

5. I glued it in (using standard wood glue) and pressed/clamped it in place with a 2x3 board and shim to the other side of the door frame.

6. I filled the minor voids with DEX Spackling Hole Filler.

7. Sanded the surface with a palm sander and hand sanding.

8. Primed then painted

9. Stood back and tried to figure out where the three mortises were - the hard part.

 

 

Edited by DistanceEd
Mispedded word - filed had become filled
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 41 Guests (See full list)

  • Forum Statistics

    31.2k
    Total Topics
    422k
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    23,773
    Total Members
    3,644
    Most Online
    rojmwq4e
    Newest Member
    rojmwq4e
    Joined