Table Saw Insert

[NYHump]

Hi All,

I have a dumb question. I have a Craftsman portable table saw (need to move it around in the small space that I have) My question is, why would they make the insert .030 below the surface of the table? Every time I go to cut a small piece of wood when I get to where the inset is it drops down to the lower level of the insert! I ended up putting double sided tape on the insert to bring it up so it's level with the table. I'm I missing something here? Design flaw?

Thanks,

NYHump

[Sinister]

Hi All,

I have a dumb question. I have a Craftsman portable table saw (need to move it around in the small space that I have) My question is, why would they make the insert .030 below the surface of the table? Every time I go to cut a small piece of wood when I get to where the inset is it drops down to the lower level of the insert! I ended up putting double sided tape on the insert to bring it up so it's level with the table. I'm I missing something here? Design flaw?

Thanks,

NYHump

I had a craftsman contractor saw at one point. My plate had little set screws that you could adjust to raise it up. If yours doesn't I would immediately chuck it and make a zero clearance plate immediately (you probably should anyway). Craftsman sells one, but it's pretty expensive.

[PurpLev]

not a dumb question - but a dumb design flow in the saw in my opinion.

the insert should sit flush with the top of the table. I used blue painters tape to shim it up since I didn't want it to stick to the table. Better yet - make zero clearance inserts that would A sit flush with the top of the table, and B create a zero clearance so narrow wood pieces won't fall into the saw cabinet, give you a cleaner cut as the material will have full support underneath it, and also have better dust control. it's a win-win situation.

good luck.

[NYHump]

not a dumb question - but a dumb design flow in the saw in my opinion.

the insert should sit flush with the top of the table. I used blue painters tape to shim it up since I didn't want it to stick to the table. Better yet - make zero clearance inserts that would A sit flush with the top of the table, and B create a zero clearance so narrow wood pieces won't fall into the saw cabinet, give you a cleaner cut as the material will have full support underneath it, and also have better dust control. it's a win-win situation.

good luck.

Thanks for the advice, it seems that it wasn't a dumb question after all. I have a few zero clearence inserts that I will put in since I will be doing some dato work. I guess you should build up an inventory of inserts depending on each blade you use so no small pieces fall into the saw like you mentioned.

Thanks

[NYHump]

not a dumb question - but a dumb design flow in the saw in my opinion.

the insert should sit flush with the top of the table. I used blue painters tape to shim it up since I didn't want it to stick to the table. Better yet - make zero clearance inserts that would A sit flush with the top of the table, and B create a zero clearance so narrow wood pieces won't fall into the saw cabinet, give you a cleaner cut as the material will have full support underneath it, and also have better dust control. it's a win-win situation.

good luck.

Hi Again,

So I got these zero clearence inserts from craftsman and guess what, they are also .030 below the table surface. Seems the only way I can get what I need is to make them. Question is what material should I make the insert from? Don't forget I must be able to sand/plane down to the proper thinkness that I need. Any suggestions on what to use?

Thanks in advance

[PaulMarcel]

The blue-tape shim and leveler screws are both great ideas to make those inserts functional. Even if you make your own, likely you'll need some shimming.

The new plate can be your template for routing a new one. If you plan on sanding/planing it flush to the surface, you'll want a hardwood. I've seen oak used often. If you can get MDF a bit thinner than needed, use that with shims.

You can easily install insert screws in your insert to help with leveling. Here are some brass insert screws from Lee-Valley. Usually there are metal tabs in the throat where the insert sits. Drill a 3/8" hole through the insert at 4 of those tabs and self-thread those insert screws in place. Turn them until they level the surface. Very fast and easy. Wax the screws before you put them in to self-thread; brass is soft.

[cts1085]

You can also make them out of phenolic (sp?) plywood - that way it has a slick top.