Thin Kerf vs Full Kerf

[Coop]

I have a Jet 1 3/4 hp table saw which I am completely happy with. Because of the limited hp, I use a Freud thin kerf 30t, glue line 10” blade for most of my cuts. I just ordered another of the same as the carbide teeth are about flush with the blade. It started me wondering, why would anyone use a full kerf blade? Due to the stability of the thickness? I don’t baby my rip cuts, just even flow with less wood removed. I’m sure I’m missing something? 

[wtnhighlander]

@Coop, I can say from experience that a thinner blade can flex more, and is a bit easier to bend. In a home hobby environment, I can't see this being a problem, but commercial shops can't afford to be as gentle with their machines.

Just avoid dropping the blade when you change it!

[Von]

My TS isn't much beefier, it is rated at 2.5 HP and I'm sure has dropped some over the last ~30 years since I bought it. A lame answer to your question, but I've just never been motivated to seek out a thin-kerf blade. I'm sure I've had circumstances in which it would have been useful and even wise, but just not enough to spur action.

I will keep the option in mind before my next big ripping job. 

[pkinneb]

I use full kerf becuase SawStop des not recommend thin kerf blades (TK) in there saws, due to the safety feature. On my prior table saws I used TK 90% of the time. Having said that I have found over the years using cross cut and rip blades vs combination blades makes a bigger difference in cut quality. Still if you can use TK I probably would.

[Beechwood Chip]

On 1/13/2026 at 8:47 AM, pkinneb said:

SawStop des not recommend thin kerf blades

SawStop recommends blades between 3/32" and 3/16".  I believe most thin kerf blades fall in this range.  I use thin kerf blades on my 1.75 HP SawStop.

The advantages of a full kerf (1/8") blade are:

1. more mass, more momentum, more consistent speed
2. less vibration, more consistent, accurate cuts
3. more thermal mass, heats up less, lasts longer
4. Easier to do math with a 1/8" kerf 

I've always heard that a thin kerf blade is recommended if your saw is less than 3 HP.

[Mark J]

1 hour ago, Beechwood Chip said:

Easier to do math with a 1/8" kerf 

+1

[gee-dub]

My 1.75HP hybrid (22124 'zipcode' saw) ran great with a thin kerf.  I tend to do a lot of joinery with the tablesaw so I found adding stabilizer plates to be a big benefit.  The stabilizers can also reduced tooth marks along the edge of rip cuts as they reduce the flex in the thinner plate.  I did run full kerf blades when I was doing something like a really tall bridle joint cut.  The stabilizers restrict the depth of cut and so could not be used. 

A 3" tall end grain cut with a tenoning jig and a thin kerf blade could give me a poor result about half the time and wood is expensive .  At any rate, like so many things, it depends what you are doing as to what will work best for you.

[Coop]

Yes, I do use a full kerf flat tooth blade for bridle joints and for cutting for splines.