Hammer5573 Posted February 20 Report Posted February 20 I was recently watching a YouTube video where the cabinet maker was making a beautiful piece that was covered in veneer. He used some sort of clear wood grain filler mixed with sawdust to fill small cracks in the veneer. In the past I've used PVA mixed with sawdust but was never satisfied with the results. I was very impressed with his results and would like to know if anybody can recommend alternatives to PVA....? 1 Quote
wtnhighlander Posted February 20 Report Posted February 20 I have used both epoxy and CA glue mixed with sawdust to fill small cracks and voids. Never tried in a veneer, but I suppose it works the same as solid wood. 1 Quote
Von Posted February 21 Report Posted February 21 For a small void, I agree with CA glue. I use epoxy for larger voids when I need some structure. If you are staining, neither of those will absorb stain. Quote
Tpt life Posted February 21 Report Posted February 21 I wonder if it was a sanding sealer. When I worked for a paint shop, we sealed all trim, either before or after staining, depending on the schedule set by the approved samples. If it were a shellac based sealer, it dries quickly and could function a bit like the CA would. It would also burn together with a bond coat of shellac in a lot of well know finish schedules. 2 Quote
Mark J Posted February 21 Report Posted February 21 I've seen the suggestion of mixing CA glue and sawdust to fill cracks, but CA sets up quickly, so how is that done? 1 Quote
Immortan D Posted February 21 Report Posted February 21 I tried the CA glue method once but it ended up in disaster. I was able to fill the crack but the area around it got deeply stained. I only noticed that after applying BLO. 1 Quote
wtnhighlander Posted February 21 Report Posted February 21 51 minutes ago, Mark J said: I've seen the suggestion of mixing CA glue and sawdust to fill cracks, but CA sets up quickly, so how is that done? The method I use is to bush fine dust into the crack, then saturate with thin CA. Multiple layers for deep voids. I've not noted the staining that @Immortan D mentioned, but I typically use poly, not BLO. Finish penetration may exacerbate the staining effect? 2 Quote
Immortan D Posted February 21 Report Posted February 21 On 2/21/2026 at 12:29 PM, wtnhighlander said: The method I use is to bush fine dust into the crack, then saturate with thin CA. Multiple layers for deep voids. I've not noted the staining that @Immortan D mentioned, but I typically use poly, not BLO. Finish penetration may exacerbate the staining effect? I guess so. The oil didn't penetrate the affected area. 1 Quote
Mark J Posted February 21 Report Posted February 21 wtnhighlander 's method makes more sense than what I was thinking. Seems to me someone some where suggested putting on a coat of shellac before the CA to prevent CA staining? 2 Quote
Von Posted February 21 Report Posted February 21 On 2/21/2026 at 9:34 AM, Mark J said: I've seen the suggestion of mixing CA glue and sawdust to fill cracks, but CA sets up quickly, so how is that done? I find using good commercial wood fillers (e.g. Timbermate) works sufficiently better for me than to try and mix my own concoctions such that I just use the fillers. I will use CA glue or epoxy without sawdust to fill voids when I don't care about the result blending in. 1 Quote
Popular Post drzaius Posted February 21 Popular Post Report Posted February 21 I've never been completely happy with the PVA glue/sawdust method because color matching and finishing issues. Has anyone used hide glue and sawdust? 3 Quote
Ron Swanson Jr. Posted February 21 Report Posted February 21 I've always thought that tinting epoxy black, instead of trying to match the grain and color, works pretty well. Except in cases where the wood is completely a blonde species and it would just stick out. 2 Quote
drzaius Posted February 21 Report Posted February 21 32 minutes ago, Ron Swanson Jr. said: I've always thought that tinting epoxy black, instead of trying to match the grain and color, works pretty well. Except in cases where the wood is completely a blonde species and it would just stick out. I think that's a good strategy for dark woods, but the lighter woods just seem to show the color variation more. 2 Quote
roughsawn Posted February 22 Report Posted February 22 Fine sanding...dust...mixed with regular wood glue has worked for me, for years. Mix it a little more runny than peanut butter. Putty knife on a board. Sands out unnoticeable if you get it right. Of coarse, there is a little sanding to do when you are done with the repair. 2 Quote
Mark J Posted February 22 Report Posted February 22 18 hours ago, drzaius said: I've never been completely happy with the PVA glue/sawdust method because color matching and finishing issues. Has anyone used hide glue and sawdust? I sorta tried this. I had some walnut with a surface defect. I mixed the walnut dust with Titebond hide glue and put a drop or two on a piece of paper and let it dry. It came out a very dark brown, almost black, which would have been too noticeable. Though, the thought crosses my mind, if you are filling a narrow crack on a dark wood, hide glue all by itself might be just the right color. 2 Quote
wtnhighlander Posted February 22 Report Posted February 22 A lot depends on just how much gap you try to fill. My definition of a 'small crack' may differ from yours ... 1 Quote
Popular Post gee-dub Posted March 3 Popular Post Report Posted March 3 On 2/20/2026 at 5:05 PM, Von said: For a small void, I agree with CA glue. I use epoxy for larger voids when I need some structure. If you are staining, neither of those will absorb stain. Agree. For small hairline cracks CA works for me. For anything a little larger I will insert a a strip or wedge so . . . I guess you could cal that veneer. For larger I will chop out a space and laminate in a repair. 3 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.