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Posted

I was recently watching a YouTube video where the cabinet maker was making a beautiful piece that was covered in veneer. He used some sort of clear wood grain filler mixed with sawdust to fill small cracks in the veneer. In the past I've used PVA mixed with sawdust but was never satisfied with the results. I was very impressed with his results and would like to know if anybody can recommend alternatives to PVA....? 

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Posted

For a small void, I agree with CA glue. I use epoxy for larger voids when I need some structure. 

If you are staining, neither of those will absorb stain.

Posted

I wonder if it was a sanding sealer. When I worked for a paint shop, we sealed all trim, either before or after staining, depending on the schedule set by the approved samples. If it were a shellac based sealer, it dries quickly and could function a bit like the CA would. It would also burn together with a bond coat of shellac in a lot of well know finish schedules. 

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Posted
51 minutes ago, Mark J said:

I've seen the suggestion of mixing CA glue and sawdust to fill cracks, but CA sets up quickly, so how is that done?

The method I use is to bush fine dust into the crack, then saturate with thin CA. Multiple layers for deep voids. I've not noted the staining that @Immortan D mentioned, but I typically use poly, not BLO. Finish penetration may exacerbate the staining effect?

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Posted
On 2/21/2026 at 12:29 PM, wtnhighlander said:

The method I use is to bush fine dust into the crack, then saturate with thin CA. Multiple layers for deep voids. I've not noted the staining that @Immortan D mentioned, but I typically use poly, not BLO. Finish penetration may exacerbate the staining effect?

I guess so. The oil didn't penetrate the affected area. 

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Posted

wtnhighlander 's method makes more sense than what I was thinking.

Seems to me someone some where suggested putting on a coat of shellac before the CA to prevent CA staining?

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Posted
On 2/21/2026 at 9:34 AM, Mark J said:

I've seen the suggestion of mixing CA glue and sawdust to fill cracks, but CA sets up quickly, so how is that done?

I find using good commercial wood fillers (e.g. Timbermate) works sufficiently better for me than to try and mix my own concoctions such that I just use the fillers.

I will use CA glue or epoxy without sawdust to fill voids when I don't care about the result blending in.

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Posted
32 minutes ago, Ron Swanson Jr. said:

I've always thought that tinting epoxy black, instead of trying to match the grain and color, works pretty well. Except in cases where the wood is completely a blonde species and it would just stick out. 

I think that's a good strategy for dark woods, but the lighter woods just seem to show the color variation more.

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Posted

Fine sanding...dust...mixed with regular wood glue has worked for me, for years. Mix it a little more runny than peanut butter. Putty knife on a board. Sands out unnoticeable if you get it right.

Of coarse, there is a little sanding to do when you are done with the repair.

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Posted
18 hours ago, drzaius said:

I've never been completely happy with the PVA glue/sawdust method because color matching and finishing issues. Has anyone used hide glue and sawdust? 

I sorta tried this.  I had some walnut with a surface defect.  I mixed the walnut dust with Titebond hide glue and put a drop or two on a piece of paper and let it dry.  It came out a very dark brown, almost black, which would have been too noticeable.   

Though, the thought crosses my mind, if you are filling a narrow crack on a dark wood, hide glue all by itself might be just the right color.

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