Beechwood Chip Posted May 18 Report Posted May 18 I'm planning to glue up a 1-¾” table top. It will be 76" x 40". I'll be using strips of wood 1-¾” deep by about 1-½” wide. My plan is to glue up 4 panels about 10" wide, and pass them through my planer, then glue those four panels together. I'd use clamps and cauls for the glue ups. I only have a couple parallel clamps larger than 40". I was planning to also use strap clamps. Any advice on the glue up would be appreciated. Thanks! 1 Quote
Popular Post fcschoenthal Posted May 18 Popular Post Report Posted May 18 Use cauls to help keep it flat, as well as small clamps on the end at each seam. You can also link 2 clamps together to make a longer one. I've also used a board with blocks screwed on both ends (in an S shape) with a smaller clamp pulling it together. Take a long straight edge to the top in lots of places, to see if it's bowing, after you get the clamps on. 3 Quote
Popular Post Von Posted May 18 Popular Post Report Posted May 18 That's a long top to hold flat. I'd be tempted to consider two things: (1) Doing two separate glue ups to make 20" wide panels and then gluing those together so I could focus on one joint at a time and (2) using biscuits to help with alignment. 3 Quote
Popular Post Beechwood Chip Posted May 18 Author Popular Post Report Posted May 18 Excellent suggestions - thanks! I was planning to use dowels instead of biscuits, since I don't have a biscuit joiner. Is it worth putting dowels in all 26 seams? Is three dowels per seam enough? I was thinking of doing four separate sub-panels so I could run them through my DeWalt 735 planer with a helical head to clean up any alignment problems. Then glue up two half panels and then the final full 40". I was planning to make it oversized and then trim it to final size with a track saw. 3 Quote
Von Posted May 18 Report Posted May 18 Your plan sounds solid. I'd base the number of biscuits/dowels on how squirrelly the wood is based on a dry fit and how many cauls I had. Perhaps using them selectively in problem spots. I think if your wood is behaving well, three would probably do it. 1 Quote
Beechwood Chip Posted May 18 Author Report Posted May 18 I have a Centipede with a sacrificial top that I use for breaking down sheet good. I just realized that I need to use that for the final glue up because my work bench is too small. And then I can screw cleats into the top and use wedges to clamp the panel. It's something I've seen on Epic Upcycling. (Skip to 2:30) 2 Quote
Ron Swanson Jr. Posted May 18 Report Posted May 18 Wow, that is going to be one heavy table! I don't have much to add, except you can use a slot cutter in your router to cut a slot for biscuits, should you decide to go that way. Dowels are so damned fussy, biscuits or dominoes are a little more forgiving. 2 Quote
Beechwood Chip Posted May 19 Author Report Posted May 19 On 5/18/2026 at 7:32 PM, Ron Swanson Jr. said: Wow, that is going to be one heavy table! My workbench / assembly table is one I got from my place of employment when they no longer needed it. It's got a nice thick wooden top, and sturdy metal legs and aprons. I added Matchfit grooves to the top with my Triton 3.25 HP router, the one with the unreliable collet. So the grooves are all wonky. Also, the metal aprons are flush with the sides of the top, which is annoying when we need to clamp stuff. I was thinking of building a whole new workbench, but then realized that I could fix both problems by making a new top that overhangs the aprons on all four sides. And throwing out the Triton router. On 5/18/2026 at 7:32 PM, Ron Swanson Jr. said: Dowels are so damned fussy, biscuits or dominoes are a little more forgiving. Hmmm, maybe I'll cut grooves and use splines. I've got lots of 1/8" plywood. 2 Quote
Popular Post fcschoenthal Posted May 19 Popular Post Report Posted May 19 On 5/18/2026 at 5:15 PM, Beechwood Chip said: I was planning to use dowels instead of biscuits, since I don't have a biscuit joiner. Is it worth putting dowels in all 26 seams? Is three dowels per seam enough? I would only use dowels/biscuits/splines on the sections that you can't correct alignment with the planer. 3 Quote
Mark J Posted May 19 Report Posted May 19 Can you buy or borrow more parallel or pipe clamps (or a Domino)? If it's an assembly table and not a "beat on it" workbench, then maybe the top doesn't need to be so thick (and heavy)? 2 Quote
Popular Post Beechwood Chip Posted May 19 Author Popular Post Report Posted May 19 I forgot that I have pipe clamps! I just have to cut some pipe. I'll ask about borrowing. Both great ideas, thanks! I don't beat on it much, but it is my workbench. Plus, the base is sturdy but very light. I need the weight. 3 Quote
fcschoenthal Posted May 19 Report Posted May 19 I've extended my workbench by putting a sheet of plywood on it. It's not as sturdy, but nothing falls off. 2 Quote
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted May 20 Popular Post Report Posted May 20 Pardon the crude finger sketch. Wide panel glue-ups are a good excuse to keep a few straight 2x4s on hand. Drill some 3/4" holes through pairs of 2x4, spaced a little farther apart than the panel width. Drop in some dowels, no glue, and pound wedges between one dowel and the panel edge. The 2x4s act as the edge clamp, also as cauls that can be squeezed with your smaller clamps. 4 1 Quote
Beechwood Chip Posted May 20 Author Report Posted May 20 On 5/19/2026 at 8:20 PM, wtnhighlander said: The 2x4s act as the edge clamp, also as cauls that can be squeezed with your smaller clamps. This is brilliant! I love it. Thanks! 1 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.