Breadboard Ends -- Tips or techniques?

[nlwoodworker]

I am building this cabinet from Fine Woodworking and now working on building the top.

I'm looking at a different alternative to the exposed joinery. Saw an idea here that looks pretty cool -- http://smoothingplane.blogspot.com/2007/11/wood-movement.html Does anybody have any tips or techniques they would care to share?

[jimmykx250]

I have done bread board ends on several projects and so far no problems. I just do a simple tounge and grove joint along the length and glue it up. I have never had a problem and I have done 3 projects this way. I figure if the boards are going to move they can move as long as you make the groove in the breadboard piece longer than the tounge it will do what it want's when it wants. That looks like a fun piece to build!

[Godet]

I just recently tackled my first breadboard end and found it exciting and a bit challenging. Here's how I did it and what I learned:

For this method to work, you need to have your tabletop close to dead flat before you start--but you have probably already done that.

Next, I used simple square clamping jig and routed what amounts to a very long tenon, or tongue. After that was in place and cleaned up with a router plane and shoulder plane, I cut shoulders on each side.

I cut the groove/mortise on a router table with the caps a little wider (1/16 - 1/32 total) to allow a little room for error in terms of getting that mortise perfectly centered. I fit the "cap" of the breadboard end and then planed it down to be dead-flat with the top.

Once that it fits, you need to drill some holes. This is where it gets interesting. The whole point of the end is to keep the top flat and allow for wood movement...so, you need to allow the pieces to move without appearing to move, right? It's woodworking magic (clue the glitter and poofs of smoke). OK, it's pretty easy, as far as magic goes. With the cap fitted on the end, and nice and flush (You'd benefit from clamping it in place--you won't be gluing these pieces) drill your holes all the way through (use a backer board to prevent tearout on the bottom). Now, once you have your holes, remove the cap and elongate the holes (maybe 2-3X the original width). ONLY DO THIS ON THE OUTSIDE HOLES; LEAVE THE MIDDLE ALONE. ALSO, ONLY DO THIS ON THE TENON--leave the cap piece alone. Doing this will allow the top to expand and contract along the width and the cap piece will look like it is staying put. Don't glue it. The final step is to put the cap on, drive your dowels through, flush cut, sand/plane it smooth, and then admire your craftsmanship and genius.

Final tips: leave the walls of your mortise at least 1/4 inch thick (depending on the overall thickness of your top). Any thinner and they will be brittle.

I like to manually turn a brad point bit backwards before doweling--this seems to reduce tearout.

Be mindful of your humidity now and the peaks and valleys of the humidity where this beauty live.

Have fun.

[HoboMonk]

I like to attach breadboard ends with through dowels of a contrasting color.

[andreas]

I love your explanation Godet; very informative and entertaining. I'm imagining a scene from Fantasia where Mickey is waving his magic wand, except this time he's in a woodshop holding a plane.