Table saw arbor out of alignment, what are my options?


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Brand new saw(three days old) and I'm running through the basic setup process. It started with this thread about my zero clearance(http://woodtalkonlin...__fromsearch__1) but now it seems there is a larger issue. I don't have dial indicator but using my combination square it appears it's out about 1/64 or less out of alignment. Is this a big issue, something I read said that if it's out by more than 5/1000 inch then there is an issue. What are my solutions/options or should I ignore it?

Two things worry me:

  • Kickback, if it's out by this much it might increase the chance.
  • If I create sleds(which are like zero clearance) they will rub just like my ZC so I would like to solve this if possible.

I don't think it's the blade, my new dado set does the same on it's ZC and I tried to rotate the blade on the arbor and it rubs at different parts of the blade.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FIZDyGEx6o

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Sounds like you already tried a few blades.....try as many as you can, and mark the arbor where the gap is the largest to see if its the same from blade to blade - this would indicate the arbor. Also look to see if there are any burrs on the face that contacts the blade that could be removed. If it was a used saw I would say replace the arbor but since it's a new one, possibly return or exchange it. Where did you get it ?

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I know it's not PC to say this...but it is a Home Depot saw. If it were me I'd return it, spend a little more and get a higher-end piece of equipment. IMO it's worth it to spend a little more on the meat and potato tools like a table saw. Or call Ridgid, get a new arbor and let the fun begin. :)

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Its a fine saw. You cant measure machine run out with a blade and ruler.

Dont swear it. Adust your fence and make some sawdust.

Don

You can't adjust a fence to compensate for a bad arbor. Sure it'll cut...but I guess it depends on how picky you wanna be because he's gonna have at least somewhat wavy boards.

Anything short of perfect from a new machine is unacceptable for my hard-earned money. I'd be returning it if I were in your shoes. If you throw a big enough fit at HD they might even come out and pick up the old one for you...they did that for my mom with a rickety POS grill she bought...or maybe that was Lowe's. Either way I'd try it.

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You can't adjust a fence to compensate for a bad arbor. Sure it'll cut...but I guess it depends on how picky you wanna be because he's gonna have at least somewhat wavy boards.

Anything short of perfect from a new machine is unacceptable for my hard-earned money. I'd be returning it if I were in your shoes. If you throw a big enough fit at HD they might even come out and pick up the old one for you...they did that for my mom with a rickety POS grill she bought...or maybe that was Lowe's. Either way I'd try it.

He doesnt know it has a bad arbor. He is not checking it properly.

I think the zc plate noise is making a mountain out of a mole hill. Those plates make noise on ever saw until they wear a little. Ive used them for years. Until you get the proper tools to check run out which i doubt it has, go make saw dust.

Don

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He doesnt know it has a bad arbor. He is not checking it properly.

I think the zc plate noise is making a mountain out of a mole hill. Those plates make noise on ever saw until they wear a little. Ive used them for years. Until you get the proper tools to check run out which i doubt it has, go make saw dust.

Don

I think he has checked it well enough given how bad it is, but a few more checks should be made. Spinning the blade and measuring the gap from the blade to a fixed point should be an indication of arbor runout. The fact that the variation in that gap is enough to see with the naked eye indicates that something is seriously bent or warped.

I would rotate the blade to where the gap is largest, then mark the arbor and blade in some place (for instance top dead center). Then loosen the blade and rotate it 90deg, and repeat several times. If the marks on the arbor are fairly consistent (the same place) then it is the arbor that is out of whack (gap follows arbor position independent of the blade position). If the marks on the blade are grouped together, you most likely have a bent blade.

To eliminate the blade from the equation, you could rig a simple jig to set a fixed reference point next to the arbor and then rotate the arbor by hand. If it's visibly off, then the arbor is bent.

Agreed on the ZCI. A good one *should* be close to the blade. Most likely your wobbling blade is just making it worse.

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To check the arbor you measure from the arbor to a fixed point above like the table. You do not use the blade at all. No washer and no nut. Using the blade is a false measurement. To measure the arbor flange you need a machinist plate. If there is runout in the arbor the groove cut in th zc plate would be wider than the kerf. This would also indicate a blade issue. Run a rip dado with the blade at half feed speed. Measure the kerf with feeler gauges it should match the blade. If not then you have blade flex or an arbor issue.

Is this a thin kerf blade?

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I would not trust that blade. The blade that came in my Dewalt scms was so warped that it made me think the saw was a piece of junk. Replaced the blade and voila - cut perfectly.

I also would not trust that arbor - at least not until you've nailed the cause of the problem.

There are multiple ways to check what the problem is. The solution is up to you (return/replace/repair).

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  • 2 weeks later...

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