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ddean5

Water Base Poly Over Tung Oil

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As long as the oil is fully cured it should work.

My general rule of thumb is every time you switch between two types of finish though, put a layer of shellac in between. Shellac will bond and seal just about everything and it's 100 natural and easy to work with and clean up! It dries fully in like 20 min if you use a thin coat. It's like a no brainer insurance policy.

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Sealcoat should always be on hand... :)

My favorite "oil color creator" mix for under water based finishes is 33%/33%/33% Sealcoat / Boilled Linseed Oil / Real pine turpentine. Mix it in a squeeze bottle. Shake it, squirt it on, wipe it on, wait 10 minutes, wipe everything left off. Like salad dressing, always shake before each squirt. :o This mix oils and seals in one step and makes a huge difference on oaks when using WB.

I've oversprayed this with ML Cambpell Ultrastar in as few as 4 hours, but I usually wait over night. The mix provides natural oil "ambering", with none of the bleed-back from straight BLO, and no need for a separate shellac barrier.

The mix does not work with mineral spirits, "turps", or other paint thinners, you MUST use real pine turpentine. I don't know exactly why, but pine sap has chemical characteristics that are compatible with both the shellac and oil.

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Have not finish the top yet. I believe I will use two or three coats of tung oil then finish it with a wiping varnish or wax. Still in the decision mode. This work bench is actually a secondary workbench and will used mostly used as an assembly table. The table is longer and wider than my primary workbench. The base is heavy duty made out of douglas fir and the top is made out of MDF (3") with douglas fir edging. The table will have a vice and dog holes. Will post a pic when finished.

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