Table Saw Blade?


Renzo

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Hey,

I've just recently purchased my first table saw and the inckuded blade isn't anywhere near as good (obviously) as i'd like. (FYI, the saw is a General 10-220 with 50" fence)

So what are you using?

I'm thinking of just going with a general blade (not one designed especially for ripping or crosscutting etc).

I was thinking a Forrest Wood worker 2.

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No doubt the FWW2 is a great blade; I bought one for my first table saw (but a thin-kerf; it was a 1.75hp saw). But pricey. I now have a SawStop and the SawStop premium blades are actually very very good. Much cheaper, too. So good in fact that Charles Neil arranged to sell them in his store because he liked them that much (psst, i was sold before that though).

Freud blades are supposed to be very good, too, and definitely cheaper. I think Rick is a Freud fan; I haven't used one yet.

Obviously, keep the blade that came with your saw even if you don't like it much. Someday you'll have to cut something you don't like much and that blade will be perfect (or as a standby while the better blade goes for sharpening).

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Hey,

I've just recently purchased my first table saw and the included blade isn't anywhere near as good (obviously) as i'd like. (FYI, the saw is a General 10-220 with 50" fence)

So what are you using?

I'm thinking of just going with a general blade (not one designed especially for ripping or crosscutting etc).

I was thinking a Forrest Wood worker 2.

Hey Renzo.. Is that the 10-220 or the 50-220? I think that you are talking about the hybrid 2HP saw, right? Anyway, if you are looking for a good blade there are a few choices that you have. Freud, Forrest, Tenryu, CMT. THose are just some of the better blades that are out there. If you are looking for a combo blade, you are probably going to want something in the 40-50 tooth range. I have a Freud Premier Fusion 40T blade that I really like. But I was also thinking about getting a Forrest WWII as an alternative. Both are excellent blades. I havent heard much about CMT or Tenryu. I know that Marc just got a Tenryu. They are both supposed to be good blades. As for kerf, I am a full curf guy. I really dont like thin kerf blades. people will say that they save material, but it is 1/32" per cut. Not that much. The ones that I have used also tend to flex and not leave me with as square a cut as I would like, but that is me and I have a saw capable of full kerf no problem, and I don't want to spend the money on a thin kerf riving knife. Well, make sure you lets us know what you do. Good luck.

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Hi Sac,

Yes sorry I meant 50-220 (i knew that.. just a typo:) (love the saw btw, and expecting the jointer and bandsaw to arrive this week). Yes i'm still married although i don't know for how much longer if i keep spending so much on stationary tools :)

I'm with you on thin kerf blades. The one I would get is the 3/32 40T

I'm thinking it really is a toss up between the Freud Premier Fusion and the WWII, also very similar in price. It may just come down to me liking red more :)

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The real benefit of a thin-kerf saw blade is removing 25% less material. That you save 1/32" or whatever of wood isn't the point. The point is that it takes 25% less power to make the cut, which is a huge benefit for guys with 1.75hp (or any 110 volt) saws.

I know there's the Internet rumor that thin-kerf blades "flex" while cutting. For it to flex, you'd have to be flexing the stock while pushing it through, which besides a bad cut sets up a gi-normous kickback situation. My thin-kerf FWW2 blade can't be flexed by hand.

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I am actually testing a couple new full-kerf Tenryu blades. They are every bit as good as a WWII or Freud Fusion. But to be honest, I am not sure what kind of feedback I can give the company at this point. These blades are all so good that its hard for me to tell any difference at all! So if your choice is between WWII, Fusion, and Tenryu, get the one that's cheapest or on sale. :) No experience with the SawStop blades so those could be a steal if they are just as good and cheaper too.

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HI

Actually after doing a bit of research i'm now thinking i like the Freud Premier Fusion.

That's what I've been using and they produce zero tear out while they are sharp. I'm getting some now on the blade that is installed because I've run a bunch of TREX through it. Plastic is hell on blades. But, I send my off to Portland and they use a CAD sharpener. It'll come back sharper than it was.

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I went to my local Rockler store on August 5th to see a demo by two Freud reps on their saw blades and router bits. After seeing the demo and listening to their talk on the amount of testing and the materials(they make their own carbide) that goes into the production of their blades, I wouldn't buy any other kind. I'd probably say the same about other blades if I saw THEIR demo's though.

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Personally I use the Forrest WWII with great success. They have a great resharpen service.

But either way you go you should invest in a blade cleaning solution. Dirty blades will cause a sharp blade to act dull causing it to work harder and build up heat and heat will destroy any blade good or bad.

Router and Table Saw Cleaner it is reusable for years of use.

LQQK

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