Outdoor kitchen

[tauchen67]

Hey Everyone,

I know I don't post much, but I wanted to see what you guys thought about a project I want to attempt. I have a covered patio that we use quite a bit in the summer time and I wanted to build a 10' bank of lower cabinets for storage and counter space for food etc. I was thinking of making the face frames and doors out of cedar since teak is very expensive. My question is what to make to carcass out of? This area does not get very wet, but it is outside and I do hose down the patio before a party. I was thinking that cabinet grade ply and using the adjustable feet rather than a pressure treated ladder base. I was going to try and make a concrete countertop, key word try.

Any thoughts or experience in this area?

Thanks

Josh

[Dave H]

Maybe build the framework out of presure treated 2x material, and than skin the outside of the cabinet with ship lapped cedar boards, i'm sure your know what that is, but if your not it's just oposeing dado's so the the top piece over laps the bottom piece it's easy with a table saw and a dado set.

[dcustoms]

You can use MDO for the carcuses and western red cedar is a good choice, white oak will also work along with mahogany. It might look really nice if you use those stainless steel cabinet feet we use them in restaurants. Use a good exterior finish and you should be in good shape.

[Bobby Slack]

1. Mahogany performs amazing in outdoors environment ... according to the books. If Teak is about $ 19 or $ 20 bf ... mahogany should be around $ 6 bf
   

[wdwerker]

I have built outdoor kitchen cabinets on a porch or in a gazebo using exterior plywood for the cases and mahogany face frames and doors. We used the plastic leveling feet and a clip on solid wood toe kick . Brass or stainless pulls, the regular concealed hinges and slides hold up fine. A/C fir or pine ply works well. Marine ply costs a bit more. If the cases are right near the open exposure make sure to paint or stain them well. Exterior stain is easier to renew every few years, varnish will fail !

[jHop]

For a concrete top, you're going to want support for the cabinet. Even if you only go with a thin coat. I'd suggest making the countertop before you finish assembly, even though this goes opposite conventional wisdom. The reason is so you can add or remove support blocks when pouring the counter top.

I've been wanting to try the concrete counters, myself, so let us know how they turn out. Remember to seal the concrete, as it also has moisture issues. (plus a really long cure time, comparatively speaking.)

[tauchen67]

thanks for all the responses everyone, I feel a lot more confident going forward. not sure what im going to use for the frames and doors now, i thought i was more limited on options. ill post pics when it eventually gets done.

Jhop,

im assuming you mean to make the concrete counter top seperate and then place it on the cabinets rather than pour it in place on the cabinets. I was planning to create it in a seperate mold and then place it on the cabinets, going to put some sort of metal in it as well (thin gauge rebar, wire screen, etc) for reinforcement.

[Bobby Slack]

Ah ... you must be aware that there are stainless steel slides and hinges in the market ... we forgot ... you know I am a hardware snob.