What router has above the table adjustment built in?


tim0625
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@B. Brinkley That looks great!. I don't understand his continual use of threaded rod and urethane construction adhesive. He does strike me as the type that started using it because it was on hand from his construction background and kept using it to spite youtube commenters.

I really should make something like this my router lift is dreadful, but it works so i keep using it.

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The main sticking point (pun intended) with construction adhesive is the inconsistent glue line thickness. Depending on clamping pressure it can easily vary 1/16" from joint to joint. When building shop jigs & machinery tolerances are critical & that just introduces another factor that can screw things up.

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1 hour ago, Chestnut said:

@B. Brinkley That looks great!. I don't understand his continual use of threaded rod and urethane construction adhesive. He does strike me as the type that started using it because it was on hand from his construction background and kept using it to spite youtube commenters.

I really should make something like this my router lift is dreadful, but it works so i keep using it.

I did not like the idea of construction adhesive either. I used plain ole Titebond yellow glue in the lift construction with no issues. The threaded rod is what gives this lift such a smooth machined like adjustment. The router sits in a lift carriage and a large bearing rides in a diagonal slot to carry the load. It's a great design that allows fine adjustment while still being quick to raise or lower with just a few turns of the wheel. If you look at the top left hand side of the lift you can see a slight gap between the plywood blocks. This is part of the brake assembly that clamps the carriage in place. Truthfully, I rarely use it except when I am using a large bit with a lot of torque. Most of the time I do not lock the lift and it never creeps or changes settings anyway because of the lift mechanism design. When it is locked and the blocks squeeze tightly together, nothing is going to move that sucker.

IMG_1531.JPG

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51 minutes ago, B. Brinkley said:

The threaded rod is what gives this lift such a smooth machined like adjustment.

I was thinking some acme rod could be used as it would allow bushings for  possibly longer smooth operation but if the threaded rod works it works. I must have bad expereice with threaded rod because it never seems smooth.

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On 6/12/2012 at 6:37 AM, Beechwood Chip said:

I heard that the triton has a safety interlock; if you riase the bit all the way up to change it, you then need to flip the power switch back to "on". And the power switch is below the table. So, that's annoying if you have it plugged into a second switch that's accessible from above the table.

      I have the Triton router and, yeah, you have to work the switch from below.  I have a large access door on the front of the cabinet and I positoned  the router so the switch was easy to reach.  I can "flip" the switch" form muscle memory now and really don't find it to be a problem.

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  • 1 year later...

The milwaukee 3 hp router fixed base is set up for adjustment when mounted on a router table. A single hole for the adjustment wrench needs to be drilled. I have been using this router for several years now with great results. In fact all of the milwaukee fixed base routers have this feature.

And congratulations on the 1023 table saw. It is one of the ignored gems in the Grizzly catalogs. It have been well reviewed over the years.

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