Wooden Shop Floor


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Been doing a little shop design here and there. Finally got what I think might be a workable size. Now I am thinking about the floor. I want a wood floor. Tried of sore feet and back, after a day in the shop. I am looking real hard at the unfinished seconds from Lumber Liquidators. 89 cent a sq ft and would go well in a shop. Question is, how do I put it down, over the concrete. The pad will be poured level, with no drainage, so that issue is out. Thinking treated 2x4 16" on center flat, then 5/8" OSB, then the 3/4" floor. Is this over kill? It would get me little over 2 3/4" to run some electric in the floor. Guessing I would need vapor barrier before the 2x4 or after?

Ideas?

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2x4 (1 1/2) plus 5/8 osb plus 3/4 flooring. Yes the 1 1/2 would be for the wire but the 2 3/4 would be for the box depth, making top of box flush with floor, before cover. Should have explained that better.

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Yea, I posted my reply there based in your description here. It sounds like you don't have any moisture problems, so a vapor barrier followed by what you're proposing should work fine. For that matter, you could just go vapor barrier and then a floating floor for quite a bit less cost. But being able to run electric is fairly cool.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I didn't see any mention on PolyIso insulation under your flooring. It would serve two purposes, added temp control, and if sized correctly (depth wise) would reduce floor deflection towards nil. I used PT 2x4's on the flat, and because I have occasional wetness, used Advantec underlayment, worked great. I screwed my floor, and it is sort of floating, I didn't attach the 2x4's to the floor, the size and weight holds it in place. Good luck!

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Your floor joist system will work any of the ways suggested, watch the seconds, they contain short boards , probably less than 16". You should try to nail through the 5/8" ply into the 2x4's , strike chalk lines for an easy refferance. I would assume your going to rent the gun, if they have an option between the "Cleat nailer" and the "stapler" go with the cleats , the cleats are cheaper and the cleats actually "saw" a small hole around itself allowing a small amount of wiggle room for the wood to expand and contract.

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In my Colorado "mountain manner" I had a bunch of leftover trex laying around so I laid all that extra flooring on my garage shop.

Good ... Exclellent on my body - plus vibram soles on my old Lowas hiking boots

Good .. Excellent on sharp tools when they fall.

Bad ... terrible at cleaning chips and dust between the cracks.

Is 2 out of 3 good enough to keep it? I can't believe I have so much leftover

;)

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  • 4 months later...

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