thewoodwhisperer

Wood Shop Flooring Options

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It also be a great excuse to play the Globe Trotters theme song whenever I walk around.

You mean you don't hear Sweet Georgia Brown playing when you walk around already? Hmmmm, maybe it's just me.

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You've been busy of late but do you remember me sending you pictures and details on the plywood floor I installed in my shop? Take a look at it again, it may help make up your mind on whether or not to go with plywood flooring or not.

So far the floor has been great. I can already tell the difference standing on the plywood versus concrete and I'm sure this winter it will be nice standing on an insullated floor too.

The only thing I would change is maybe not sanding between coats or at least use a heavier grit becasue once the saw dust starts flying the floor becomes slipery. I think this will become less of an issue the more I use the floor and especially once I get a dust collector.

Dave

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One method that is used in basements and is relatively inexpensive AND keeps the wood from touching the concrete AND is cushy for walking on is.....put down a layer of 1" foam insulation on the concrete, cover with 5/8 (or 3/4) T&G plywood. Use tapcons (concrete screws) to attach the ply to the concrete floor. You now have a great floor as is, or, you can attach whatever you like to it as a finished floor (it's a shop, I would leave it as is, maybe some varathane).

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My shop has a slab on grade. I used Delta-FL http://www.cosella-dorken.com/bvf-ca-en/products/foundation_residential/floor/products/fl.php for moisture barrier, insulation, and slight cushioning below the Pergo flooring. You should not seal a slab on grade. Moisture always moves from the ground through concrete. If you seal the concrete, then the moisture will eventually collect and damage the floor.

You can order Delta-FL through Home Depot. It is a snap to install. Just cut and tape the editions together. I used small pieces to level before installing the Pergo.

Pergo is overkill, but I only had a 20x24 floor and Lowes had the Pergo on sale.

The result is a floor that stays comfortable year round here in Colorado. It also has just enough give to be comfortable to stand on all day - no need for the pads I used to have on my hard garage floor.

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My shop has a slab on grade. I used Delta-FL http://www.cosella-d...products/fl.php for moisture barrier, insulation, and slight cushioning below the Pergo flooring. You should not seal a slab on grade. Moisture always moves from the ground through concrete. If you seal the concrete, then the moisture will eventually collect and damage the floor.

You can order Delta-FL through Home Depot. It is a snap to install. Just cut and tape the editions together. I used small pieces to level before installing the Pergo.

Pergo is overkill, but I only had a 20x24 floor and Lowes had the Pergo on sale.

The result is a floor that stays comfortable year round here in Colorado. It also has just enough give to be comfortable to stand on all day - no need for the pads I used to have on my hard garage floor.

This looks like a good product. Was it expensive?

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Pergo can be a little more expensive than other brands of better quality. They have a lot of name recognition and they seem to use that to put out a lesser quality product, other manufacturers in the same price range will usually be a better quality.

Uni-click ,Shaw, Mannigton and Mohawk all make nicer laminates. And are typically less money for similar quality

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Vic, I realize this is a really old post but I like the look of your lauan floor. It looks great. How did you fasten it?

 

 

I just built a shop and I'm planning on a wood floor over concrete. The main reason is just for warmth and leg and back comfort. 2" foam, then 3/4" sleepers over the top of the foam. The sleepers will allow air movement underneath, account for issues in height differences in the concrete and provide a nailing surface. Then 3/4" t&g, but I haven't decided on the final finished floor over the OSB.   Lauan is lower cost, thinner, and seems to look good.  Possibly just paint the OSB but I am worried about it chipping. I'm also not sure if I should tapcon the sleepers through the foam into the concrete or just let everything float. Any thoughts on this project before I get going on it?

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Flooring Options is modest to perfect and well to light and more grounded than concrete for moving overwhelming material round. They likewise did not get the first solid complete right so this will settle that in the period in-between.

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On ‎7‎/‎14‎/‎2012 at 0:52 PM, Vic said:

Mark, I used 1/4 Luan ply for my finished floor. You can be the judge of how it looks. Personally, I think plywood finished with a butt load of shellac is a good way to go. It's repairable for all the glue, stains etc. and shellac is not nearly as slick, after you've got a little sawdust on it. Ask me how I know this!

post-8-0-75540800-1342284748_thumb.jpg

@Vic - love the floor!  I can't believe that is plywood.  Can you tell me more about what is underneath, how you attached, how many coats of shellac, etc...

 

Thanks,

 

Carl

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