Iron on Edge Banding or solid wood?


pghmyn

Recommended Posts

I have never used iron on edge banding before, and I have a project coming up that will require the use of a lot of plywood to be edge-banded.

I am using hard maple for an entertainment stand, and all the shelves will be made out of 3/4" plywood. I remember my dad would always cut about a 1" strip of solid wood and adhere it to plywood edges when he used it, but I want to know if simple iron on edge banding really would be the best choice. It seems simple enough to put on the project, but then again I have never used it and I could be completely wrong.

Should I go with the iron on stuff, or use solid stock and glue it on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've used both approaches on projects. I prefer adding solid wood to the edges, but that's mostly because I put an edge profile on it. Although I did do one project, for my parents, where I made them a couple computer stands. I used the iron on banding for those. Those cabinets are about 5 years old now and edge banding has held up very nicely. The edge banding I used was "real" wood, but the glue on the banding was heat activated. I would never use the peel & stick banding. For iron on banding it's important to get the heat right. I did a couple test pieces first. I think I was a little timid on my first attempts, because I was afraid of overheating it. The banding can take a fair amount of heat and needs a bit of heat to activate the glue properly.

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The iron-on stuff is easy and works well, but might not be quite as durable as a solid edge band. It also gives a slightly different look, since you won't see the seam between the iron-on strip and the surface of the shelf. Your dad's method is quite a bit more work, and probably more durable. For your project, I'd say the first consideration would be the durability aspect. If you're expecting the shelves to get banged around a lot, then follow your dad's lead and use a solid edge band. If that's not a consideration (you don't have kids, maybe, or the shelves are behind some cabinet doors) then pick the one that looks best to you.

-- Russ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've used both also. Depends on the situation. Like Mike said, I've used thicker pieces on a piece that got edge profiled and also on a piece that was for kids toys because I knew it was going to get banged a lot. In the other case like Russ said, I've used iron on banding on a piece that was furniture and just sat in the room for "decoration". My only recommendation other than heating the iron on adequately is be careful cutting the extra width off with species such as oak that has a hard grain. The knife can tend to follow the grain if cutting against it and chip out just over the substrate edge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I prefer solid edge banding. I used an Eagle America style B set for several hundred feet of edge banding for a file storage project. I even used it to add a larger piece of solid wood on the back edge of the sides in which I cut a rabbet to align the parts of the carcasses when doing the assembly. Because it has a tongue and groove detail to it, it had some structural integrity. In the end, I'd highly recommend using this set, but to answer your question again...go with solid banding for a lot of reasons...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember my dad would always cut about a 1" strip of solid wood and adhere it to plywood edges when he used it

Was this 1" on edge (creating an overhang) or 1" of additional width at the same thickness of the plywood? The former option isn't just about dressing up the cut edge, but it also imparts valuable rigidity to prevent the shelves from sagging.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use both methods. Solid wood for long shelves and exposed shelves like in bookcases. Under 30" wide and behind doors I use iron on. A good sharp trimming tool, plenty of heat and rolling pressure and practice plus patience are needed.

For solid wood we glue and use a few micro pins to prevent slipping then clamp 2 shelves at a time edges in the middle.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use both methods. Solid wood for long shelves and exposed shelves like in bookcases. Under 30" wide and behind doors I use iron on. A good sharp trimming tool, plenty of heat and rolling pressure and practice plus patience are needed.

For solid wood we glue and use a few micro pins to prevent slipping then clamp 2 shelves at a time edges in the middle.

Couldn't have said it better myself!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was this 1" on edge (creating an overhang) or 1" of additional width at the same thickness of the plywood? The former option isn't just about dressing up the cut edge, but it also imparts valuable rigidity to prevent the shelves from sagging.

My dad would make sure the pieces are equal in thickness to make a seamless appearance.

The parts I am going to edge band are on I believe only six shelves of an entertainment stand. Four of the six will be behind doors, and the other two will be open at all times in the middle portion of the stand.

I feel I could get away with the iron on in the door portions, but since there are only two other shelves which need edge banding, I could just spend the extra time to put a nice solid strip of wood on there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

pg, I think Steve said it best. I do want to emphasize one thing. If you do go with the wood tape, make sure you use hard roller pressure on the tape while the glue is still warm. Once you are finished, look under the overhanging edges and make sure that you have a tight seam all the way around. If need be, touch up with more heat and more pressure. If you don't have a roller, I've often used a rubbing block, rounded on one end on the sander, to apply the pressure. Don't be afraid of putting too much pressure on, but do be careful when you run off the ends of the board that you don't break the tape off. Murphy's Law requires that the tape will always break off wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I am going to go with a solid wood strip on the edges. Maybe when I do some projects for myself, I will experiment with iron on edge banding. I would rather get more acclimated with the product before I put it into a product for a client (even though he is just a friend).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am also one of the many who have used both. The nice thing about the iron on edging is that it is quick and easy. The better thing about the solid wood banding is that it is much more durable. If it is on a book case where the item on the shelf can catch the edge of the banding the solid wood is more durable.

That said I used the melamine banding on book shelves. It was very quick & dirty, but they do catch. I have 7 4' x 7.5' book cases made in this manner. They are completely functional, not a piece of art.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wood iron on edge banding is also much better if you carefully sand and slightly round all the corners before finishing. When the finish flows over the edge it helps prevent any catching and peeling.

Melamine is one step towards the dark side, please don't go down that path,it leads to IKEA!

<evil grin>

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I second murphy's law. I can only find a few hours at a time to put on my craftsman's hat. Even with my limited time I sit down once I've figured out what steps I'm going to finish and try to think up all the ways that I can screw it up. Even with the extra caution... I have plenty of face-palms. If it can go wrong, it will. Just make sure that you keep all your fingers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.