Jason Glover Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 New to the forum, kinda new to the hobby too. I tell people who ask, I have more money than time, and more time than talent. So, now that you are warned, I find of course that for every project I work on, I learn a ton, but also a ton of questions spring up. And since I have no one to ask... First assume that I only have a Festool TS 55 track saw and MFT/3. I do NOT have a table saw. One specific question about an issue that I keep running into: how do I rip small or narrow stock? Specifically cuts that are longer than would work on my mitre saw, and narrower wood than the Festool guide rail. Take a 24" long piece of exotic wood that is only 3" wide (and say 1/4" thick)...the issues are, the rubber no slip grip on the underside of the guide rail doesn't touch the stock, and there is no way to clamp the stock down without blocking the saw from cutting. Lastly, the guide rail then becomes wobbly. I have solved this by using similar thickness wood, but it still doesn't solve my issue. Btw, have a laugh at my expense, i once tried to solve the issue using the "low profile" side clamps, which pins the stock tightly using HORIZONTAL force on each side. Apparently saws don't like this binding effect. So, with only these tools, how can i safely stabilize this piece and rip it down the middle? Obviously the example stock piece i gave isn't the only time i've had this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdale51@yahoo.com Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 I don't have any experience with the TS55, with a regular circular saw here's what I would do. Assuming my work piece is jointed and planed on 4 sides I would joint and plane a piece of scrap the same thickness and wide enough to support the track/straight edge, and double face tape both pieces to a sacrificial piece of MDF or plywood. The scrap carries the track/straight edge without wobble. Then you can rip to your hearts content. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikepdarr Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 If you have more money than time, buy a table or band saw. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STL Woodguy Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 tdale51 is on the right track (no pun intended), I do something similar to that. When my table saw is set up for a cut that I don't want to lose and I need to rip something else differently, I fall back to the TS55 and use a similarly thick board to support the track, measure from the edge of the board to the cutline of the track (and make sure it's parallel), then butt my piece to cut up against it. What's nice is that setup can make repeatable cuts, too. Festool also has a parallel guide for the track with an optional attachment that can make smaller repeatable cuts, but the price on those accessories is ridiculous (even for Festool). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMeekWoodworks Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 The parallel guides are expensive, yes, but if you are going to be needing narrow cuts often and don't want to buy a table saw (I sold mine and don't ever plan on replacing it), it is worth every penny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaBear Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 I'd put a +1 on the band saw idea. It's the 'right' tool for this (assuming you don't want a table saw, which if I understand is the case), saves a bit of wood due to the narrower kerf, and opens up the world of curves.. My 2cents. Your mileage (kilometer-age) may vary 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceWW Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 umm let's see...hand saw? You knew I was going to say that didn't you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Yeah but he wants it to be fun so that idea is out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dlhunter Posted November 28, 2012 Report Share Posted November 28, 2012 Honestly if you are a true novice ripping thin strips is going to be challenging and potentially very dangerous with the ts55. That said if you are not under a time crunch and the piece you are ripping has a reasonably straight edge you could glue a piece of stock that is the same thickness (plywood might be best)to the piece you want to rip so that you have a wider surface to work with. Then you can rip all the way to the glued up seam. But if you are serious about woodworking I would recommend buying a table saw even if it is a $200 portable one or used even. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBaker Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 +1 for what Darrel said. There are lots of small ts's out there which would work great for that sort of stuff without all the fuss of making a track saw work. You could have the piece cut before you figured out which piece of scrap to use to keep the track stable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans_Christopher Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 I second the handsaw idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Glover Posted November 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 Thanks for all the advice. I have personal reasons for not getting a table saw: in short, i have a special son who absolutely loves being in the shop for me, but doesn't speak / communicate / understand almost anything. He also has no regard for safety / danger, and therefore, the thought of an open-bladed table saw frightens me greatly. That TS55 is not only extremely well guarded, but also stops almost instantly when you release the trigger. And so, for now, I have generally made due with the track saw. That said, I do believe the double sided tape may be the best method presented here. Is there a brand you guys generally recommend? If anyone else comes up with something additional, feel free! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarton22 Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 I was taught by my mentor that if he had to get rid of every power tool in the shop but one, he would keep the bandsaw. He told me there is very little that a bandsaw can't do for you. Considering your situation, you still might consider one. If you get a full sized model, the work surface is very high, and a little fella would have a very hard time getting to the blade just to touch it. The switches are generally even higher than that. Even if you were go with a bench top model, I think you would find the same is true. As far as a table saw goes, you could always add a safety switch and build a cover for it. Alternatively, you can be diligent and lower the blade after use. A small contractor saw might be a good choice for you there because it can be bench mounted for use and then stored in a cabinet quite easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevmc Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 You might also search festoolownersgroup.com. I am pretty sure there are a number of home built jig ideas. I also see, to remember in one of the Jerry work supplemental manuals some ideas too. Perhaps it was for the mfs router jigs but I can't remember for sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Crawford Posted November 29, 2012 Report Share Posted November 29, 2012 If you are comfortable letting us know your location there may some members here that could help you in their shop with their band saw or table saw. I'm in Oregon, about 20 miles from Grants Pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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