Charles Neil

the stripper will remove the Blotch control, how ever it should also help more of the dye come off as well.

Hummmm... yea there is a lot in there. It took a year to film this thing, my issue sometimes was remembering something that had happened when I was doing whatever it was , and it just came out . Its like how did I turn the underline on this friggin post,,

not sure if this will help but I just did something similar , but wanted it snow white and fast. I used some BIN shellac base primer, but the water base would work and simply put a top coat over it , worked pretty slick , here is a blog my daughter did on it http://intheworkshop.wordpress.com/2014/07/29/new-life-in-old-stuff-upcycling/

fairly wet yes, but go easy , I like to spray it at a slightly higer pressure and less fluid, and go one direction then opposite , basically a cross hatch pattern and stay back a little from the surface. Its more of a misting it on inorder to be sure its nice and even , dont get too wet, remember its water and water has surface tension, so your better with several light coats then one heavy wet coat , unless your wiping it back

HHH, Typically most of your pre stains ARE just thinned topcoats, and usually they dont work, Ours is anything but, As to the LJ thread, Its hard to say , but if the person actually attended my class, then they didnt pay very close attention, because the 2 points addressed are the total opposit of what we teach.. Now sprayin it on and then wiping it back with a pad wet with the product , does work for faster appliation, but you have to wipe it so the soft grains can absorb, that s also why we do 2 coats with a light scuff sand in between, so to remove any raised grain . But to just spray it and leave it , does not work , you also want to wipe it back after a min or so to remove any excess,

First off, the Blotch control is NOT a top coat finish , it does utilize some similar componets but there is no need to use shellac, adhesion is not an issue. Second: you do not want to spray it unless your just using that as a transfer means, you Have to wipe it. Spraying lays down an even coating, and does not allow the softer areas to absorb more , which is needed to control the blotch. The objective of the game is to get more into the softer grain than the harder grain to equilize the finish . Here is a Blog I wrote on it may be a good Idea to give it a read... http://intheworkshop.wordpress.com/2012/04/17/applying-dyes-stains-over-my-blotch-control-prestain/

Jimmy, Water can be be used as a blotch control to some degree, but remember if you wet the board then use a water base dye over it odds are it wil be much lighter , so you may have to do a second coat of color.Water does help with blotching but its not perfect. We actually use water as a prestain then float a oil base top coat over it, to keep the oil from migrating into the soft grains and causing blotch, might sound a bit odd , but it works. Discovered it quite by accident, then did alot of testing and it worked well, the key is to use a good drying , varnish oil .

the issue is like on like, the alcohol will act like water, and often water base colorants can be redissolved by water, the blotch control doesnt matter, it can do the same on raw wood, the mechanical pull of hand applying can pull color, a thin oil would do best but you want a good drying oil we like Arm R Seal by General finishes, it goes on well and dries quickly .

The product does work well on birds eye, one of the things it does, is to prevent bleed out around the eye's, often one coat is all you need if your looking to maintain the figure, it just doesn't blotch and bleed out as bad, but rather makes the eyes more pronounced. If your trying to mute the eyes then 2 coats and possibly 3 may be needed, the area around the eyes is very absorbent. The issue with multiple coats is your losing color retention , as with any presatin, so multiple coats of dye may be needed to get the color, unless your spraying the color on . As stated above, you really need to test, because also as stated, mixed woods can be quite a challenge, especially when figured and non figured are incorporated into the same panel .

Take a look at System III Marine coatings , Spar varnish ..I am testing it and it has shown to be EXCELLENT "

My issue with steel wool is it doesn't leave a clear crisp sheel, but more of a muted one, I do not like the scratches it leaves, while waxing helps, it still shows . My preference is to use the Abralon pads , a 1000 will give you a matt sheen, 2000 a low end of a satin a 3000 is a high satin/semi gloss ( depending on how much you rub) and 4000 is a gloss. I use a little soapy water as a lubricant, just be sure not to let the white slurry dry on the surface or it can be a bear to get off, Keep it clean . THe other thing with any rubbed surface is it will appear hazy/cloudy .. its just the nature of the beast .. You can go to your local autobidy supply and tell them you want some "swirl remover", it will remove the haze. Its basically like a wax , but not a wax and no silicones, its designed for a new finish . Works well. If you get too much sheen , simply drop a grit and go over it again, The abralon only comes in 6" pads , and can be washed out and reused . If you have debris, you want to use a silicon carbide sand paper ( black, waterproof) in about a 600 to 1200 grit, depending on severity of the debris, the finer the paper the better . ( less to rub). You want to use a block and sand the debris flat, because the Abralon pads are a sponge pad and will ride over the debris, and while it will smooth it, it will no level it. As a swirl remover, fina;l "waxing" this is one of my favorites http://www.calcarcover.com/product.aspx?cid=110&id=1399 , I have also seen it in some auto stores like Pep Boys and Advance Auto . Woodcraft sells the Abralon pads, and some have told me thsy found them on Ebay , also here is a link to a guy who sells tham as well as the SIA Aire www.bowlingbeat.com hope this helps

No I dont , you need to check with the finish manufacture , they all have different times ..

Triple H got it right,,, How can I help ? The new video is in an on line class I do ..Sorry, but will be happy to answer BTW , a 10 day cure period will do fine for about any waterbase finish.

yes sir.. that be the correct email

I can help..But alot of typing lets have a phone chat, Email me Charles@charlesneilwoodworking.com ... be glad to help, then you can do all the typing BTW ..NGR means its an alcohol based dye ( well sorta) , then they do a stain over it, large manufactures do this all the time, because they typically use "less than" furniture grade woods. Not to say the wood is not sound and solid, many use "soft maple", and so forth , then use a sprayed base dye to establish a base color, then a stain.. . Ever noticed how you see commercial furniture and cabinets labeled "cherry finish", "oak finish", etc,. They didn't say it WAS cherry or oak, but it was finished to look like it .