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It's a mini-me work bench.  Pretty cute and looks like it would be effective.  What do you mount it on when you want to use it?

This page has some other pictures. http://starbornhavanese.com/pictures.html

Back at it since returning from another unsuccessful surf fishing trip for the depleted Striped Bass. Was able to get a few hrs in and worked on the arm to leg joints. These go pretty quick and gives you the best example of my method of what I refer to as power sculpting. Started with the back leg to arm joint. You have a decent amount of excess arm material which I quickly take down with the RAS. Then I switch to 80 grit on the RAS as I'll be using this for more fine refinements next. Once material is flush I start with the outside of the arm. Here I first use the rasps and then move to the small sander with an interface pad. There is a large flat area here that I lightly crown over and I'm a little more aggressive removing wood on the underside of the joint. This goes pretty quickly; Now it's to the top inside edge of both arms. In this first pic you can see where I start after the RAS reduction. Smooth contours but a sharp edge; After the rasps; Then the small sander with the interface pad, this gets me in the ballpark; Next is the inside of the arm where we add the classic Maloof detail of a sweeping curve sculpted into the arm. Maloof used a long sweeping curve that travels up the arm further than the curve I use. Start by marking it out; Now you can see in the picture above we have left a little more thickness here to build in this detail.  First thing I do is use the RAS with the 80 grit to start the reduction. You do this with a light touch and with the edge of the pad. This machine is great for this; Now on to the rasps. Like the modeler rasp here; Now you can see I still have some bulk below the curve; Handle this with the small sander and the interface pad. The edge of the interface pad rides along the curve; This is post sanding; That gives me a nice result, stand chair up and look at it from a different angle, still notice some extra thickness below the curve; After a little more reduction we are better; You can see from this pic I put my plugs in the screw holes. For this chair I decided to change species and went with walnut plugs. In the past I've always used the same species for the plugs but with this lighter wood I was concerned the glue line would stand out.  After that I move to the arm to front leg joint. Here it is prior to shaping; After some quick work with the RAS; Now the rasps; Now the sander/interface pad; Still need to do a lot of hand sanding in this area but this is a good start. Then I move to the front profile of the arm, I leave some bulk here for clamping on the arm. Create the more delicate edge after arm is glued on; So once that is done I got a few other areas addressed. Started rounding over and sanding the back legs above the arm but below the headrest; Worked on the underside of the seat; Worked on the side profile of the front leg; and getting ready to glue my blocks on the rockers; So next is on to the headrest and spindles. I'll glue the blocks on the rockers and set them aside so they are ready when I get there. Also throughout the next few steps I'll do some more refinement and hand sanding. It's good to get away for a few days and look again when dealing with refinements.  All total for this session is 3.5 hrs, bringing my total to 30.5. Thanks for looking.

Lived in central NC for several years.  Miss the fresh seafood! Central NC is a good place- mountains to the west and the beaches to the east. My first job was in sales, covering NC and SC. Tom King, you live ON Lake Gaston? Are you aware that I am up for adoption? I'm potty-trained and don't eat a lot.