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How sharp is it?   I can't really tell by the pictures.

So the interesting thing I think at this point is the total lack of a reference surface.  The sides are all curved.  The faces/edges are not flat.  And the case has some flex to it, which meant trying to flatten a face at this point would probably lead to chasing my tail.  So I had to start somewhere.  So my first goal was to get rid of that flex by joining the two ends, so that I could then flatten a face.  Before I could do that I had to square up the ends, since I obviously can't be cutting through them after there's something joining them.  Well, I suppose I could have done some kind of temporary joining, flatten the faces, and then come back to squaring up the ends.  But really if they aren't absolutely square it doesn't make any difference. Next I made a fixture to hold the case.  There are high stops at the ends to force them all to be the same width.  The ones with the sculpting had more springback after I removed a lot of material at the top curve.  There's a rail at the front and back which supports a template that I used to route a flat area on each end.  I had the bit extended as far as I dared to get to the lower side and it didn't completely flatten it, but the low spot is only 5 thou or so below, it just looks like it's more than that. The walnut piece brings the two level with each other and extends out in both directions.  I used walnut here because you can just barely see it in the finished piece from the right viewpoint and I want it to disappear in the shadows.   I used block with a cleat on the right side to reference off the edge of the walnut piece to locate the plate that joins the two ends in the same spot on each case, and to hopefully get the slot in it aligned parallel to the sides of the case.  The slot is going to receive a vertical divider, more on that at the end of the post. With the two ends joined now I could flatten a face.  To do that I had to modify my shop built drum sander for a larger depth of cut.  Fortunately I never glued the cabinet together so I could remove the front and back of the cabinet and move the motor to the outside.  Then I just had to rig up a temporary support for the table. If I just had a couple of these to do I would have done the other side with the drum sander as well, but with 20 to do and more than 1/8" to remove I did something I don't like to do and that is use the table saw to cut something that isn't flat.  They are big enough that my hands were nowhere near the blade and I had a lot of leverage.  It went fine.  The blue tape did it's job preventing splintering for the most part, just a couple spots I had to fix. That brings us up almost current.  I've started working on the rabbet for the back panel.  Rather than use a rabbeting bit I cut a pattern on the cnc and am using a pattern bit so they all end up the same.  Then I can cut the panels on the cnc and not have to fit anything once I get it dialed in.   That vertical divider is what is currently vexing me.  It attaches at the bottom into the groove in the joining plate.  It attaches to the top of the case... how?  I am thinking pocket screws, but on the sculpted version there is not enough material there for a screw.  I've got 1/4" at best thickness to the case there.  I was thinking about a "pocket dowel", where I would use the pocket hole jig with a regular 3/8" bit instead of the step bit to make a shallow hole in the case so I could insert dowels after sliding the divider in place.  But I'm open to other ideas. On the right side of the case there will be a slide out unit for hanging storage on full extension slides.  So I have to also get another slide at the top.  I think that will be mainly attached to the divider rather than the case, but there's some opportunity to reinforce the divider/case joint there as well.  

Yes they are socket chisels. There are  many tricks to keep them on some on this site i can't remember where but the search function should find them.

The factory grind on the end is pretty pathetic though