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Thanks everyone for the advise about attaching the center boarder divider. I took the cautious approach and only applied glue to about 11/2” on the tenons and mortises. I’m posting a picture of the nearly completed bed. Just need to screw the slates and add plywood base. -
I will often put 2 thin coats on before sanding just to avoid the ease of sanding through. I scuff those low spots with a gray abrasive pad. Corners and narrow edges only get the gray pad. Sanding always stops just shy of any edge or corner. Vacuuming & wiping up every little speck of dust before the next coat is crucial. I use microfiber cloths with great caution because any rough areas can snag fibers so tiny they only show up when your applying the next coat. Cotton tee shirt rags don't pick up the super fine dust but they don't leave tiny fibers...... -
Getting large sheets with either grain direction is going to be difficult. Shipping & packaging would be quite expensive even if you found a source. Approx 2' x 4' should be readily available. Have you got a powerful vacuum press ? I built a vacuum tank to get the bag evacuated faster. 8' section of Schedule 40 PVC ( not DWV) with Schedule 40 domed end caps glued on. I tapped one end for 1/8 pipe threads . I pull a hard vacuum on the pipe then close a ball valve. Once the press is loaded and the pump is running to pull it down I open the ball valve. I've got hoses & tees and ball valves running to vacuum clamping pods and foot valves as well as the tank and the press.
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Welcome to the forums Geoff. As you have already found out on your own, woodworking is a never ending wandering journey in pursuit of never ending goals and skills. It sounds like you are off to a great start. Glad to have you join us. -
By Dolmetscher007 · Posted
I mean 1 ply is 4’x8’ long grain... then the second ply is 4’x8’, the grain run in the opposite direction. Yes... i am essentially making my own Baltic birch plywood; just not flat.
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