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Thanks Chet. With mineral spirits that tells me you are using the oil base. Do you have an opinion or experience on the water base. Do you have a sheen preference? Thank you for your comments. -
Got it. Plane shift, not an angle shift. So you're saying set the saw depth for a one-and-done, for both the rough cut and the final cut? And the router is moreso to tighten up the face angle of the cut to be as flat as possible and flush with the opposing face angle? Gotcha re: the finish. I guess the only real worry there would be the topside of the counter for the sink junction, as the biscuit/epoxy areas for the face angle will be freshly cut and not sealed at all. -
Go to the Wood Whisperer Guild site, Marc has a free ‘sample guild project’ with different detailed instructions on building picture frames. As a bonus, Matt is in the video too! -
No angle change at all. Just cut the first cut about 1/4" too long. Final cut in one pass with circular saw. Maybe you could cut it 1" too long then try a full cut pass as a test run before you cut the actual exact cut. I didn't pick up on you finishing the slabs before fabricating the corner Joint & cut out. Just be aware you will probably need to sand the exposed faces to get a perfectly smooth surface. All glue joint surfaces need to be unfinished so the epoxy can soak in. -
That sycamore has been cut off a river bank or a low wet area to have ambrosia streaks. The ambrosia maple the same way, needs to be around water to have the ambrosia streaks. If you cut them on the side of the mtn they will be white with no ambrosia streaks. Box Elder the same way to.
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