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I should mention that when I opened the box all the bits seemed intact. -
Pick up a machine-head screw at the HW store and was figuring out what I was going to need to do to cut and file it down to fit when I realized my chipbreaker didn't actually fit the plane. Even I can now give up on this plane, think of it as scrap parts (for what I'm not sure) and move on. Anyways, thanks for the suggestions. -
A couple of band clamps and a feather board for resawing to prepare for making some boxes. And a couple of cheap planes to hopefully make one usable scrub plane.
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Our office had a holiday party today so I went in and got nothing done. Sadly didn’t win any prizes. Left early to go help set up the stage for my daughter’s Nutcracker ballet recital tomorrow. Now just waiting for my wife to get here with the kids so I can take my son somewhere. Might go to Rockler and buy some clamps… -
I made the panels pretty close tolerance-wise. This one was too close so I had to shave a bit more off and re-color. While I wait for that to dry I glue the rails to the last panel stile. Gluing one side at a time helps me get the rails good and square to the stile. The adjacent stile then pretty much self-squares. Then I slide the panels in and attach the other stile. Now all the side panels are glued up. I'm sure I've mentioned this before. When you are doing an epoxy job, mix a little extra and fill in your worn ZCI's. A strip of packing tape on the top allows you to pour in the extra epoxy from the back. You can then re-cut your ZCI opening. Not perfect but definitely serviceable. I use a sac-fence for this dado cut. I also use a raised panel feather board. These arced feather boards place the down pressure on the portion of the material that is not being milled. This prevents tipping. The rabbet in the face frame allows the side panel to seat well. Once in place the vertical grain of the sepele makes the joint almost disappear. I tend to call this a Garrett Hack joint since that is where I learned it. I have used it with good success on many pieces. Here's an example on a dresser. It gives the impression of a thicker side member although it is actually a 90 degree joint of 3/4" pieces.
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