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32 topics in this forum

  1. Mahogany recipe box

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  2. Marriage sign (or plaque)

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  3. T slot cauls

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    • I tried searching arrow's site and they don't have anything yet on there. I did find this https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/arrow-fastener-co-llc-to-be-acquired-by-hangzhou-greatstar-industrial-co-ltd-300451093.html and http://contractorsupplymagazine.com/pages/News---20180510-Arrow-Fastener-relaunches-Pony,-Jorgensen-and-Goldblatt-brands.php Haven't been able to find much more.
    • What you see is what I got.  I purchased mine at Berland's, but they have no web store.  You could try Woodworker's Supply or Grizzly.  Both used to care them.
    • Links? This has me excited i prefer jorgensen clamps.
    • I think i got it. You brushed on the poly, what was your technique like? Did you slather it on like paint? If so that's not a good way to get poly applies especially the thick brushing type. I've found poly needs a good brush that is tailored to the finish. Sadly the brushes i used when i brushed poly cost more than the finish, which leads to clean your brush well. My technique for applying brushing poly is very slow even strokes like 1 inch a second, with a brush that isn't soaking in finish because runs will form. If your brushing and a bubble forms on the finish you need a way to pop it, they don't pop on their own. I never figured that out other than trying to empty the brush and doing very light slow swipes to make sure i didn't leave any other bubbles behind, which worked about 50% of the time the other 50% it caused more bubbles. This leads to stirring the finish you need to stir slowly so you don't put bubbles in the can. Shaking is a HUGE no no for the poly. Does this sound complicated? It should brushing poly sucks, why i switched to wiping poly. My suggestion is to sand back your finish. If the bubbles are from application you shouldn't have to go back to bare wood only enough to remove the defect. Second I'd consider diluting the finish or look into the home made wiping poly. I never bothered making my own homemade wiping poly (google has good results). I instead went out and purchased it because I'd rather spend more time doing wood working then playing chemist. For wiping poly I apply it with a clean lint free piece of cotton t-shirt or specifically bought cotton rags. I've even started to use the Scott shop towels for 2nd coats, on the 1st coat the wood tears the paper towel up. When applying make sure to have a dry cloth/towel handy to grab any drips or runs on edges or vertical faces. It's easier to remove excess when the finish will still self level than trying to sand it away later, it never really sands away as nicely. Always sand between coats. I like to use 320 or finer. My latest choice has been 400 grit and I've started to use my random orbit sander on speed 2 of 6. I like this because the vac pulls the dust away so there is leas to clean up. sanding should be fairly quick, the goal isn't to remove finish but to hack off the dust numbs or remove small defects like a tiny ridge ect. If the surface isn't smooth that should be addressed at the wood level not the finish level. Wiping poly needs more coats for heavily touched surfaces i go 4-5. Other surfaces get 3, this is open to preference.
    • I received this email message from Jorgensen: Thank you for recently contacting Jorgensen and Pony.  The Jorgensen and Pony products are available again.  For more information please contact Arrow Fastener Customer Service at 800.776.2228.   I also found some of the new product in one of the independent retail places I frequent.  I picked up a couple of little EZ holds, 'cause I decided I needed them.  
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