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By B1rdhunter · Posted
Looks like whoever was rolling them out knew what they were doing. Yum -
First of all, amazing work. I really like the wood selection and the inner frames/edging look awesome. I like how you glue them up two sides at a time too. So you enjoy not being running into stuff in your shop? What next, you like not having to move things back and forth repeatedly because you have nowhere to put what you’re working on? -
I have alternate suggestions. This is from an uninformed perspective. In viewing images of queen Anne pieces the tops appear to be solid wood with the profile cut into the edge. The top appears to be veneered giving the look of a mitered frame but not actually enclosing the top in a frame. I see your molding appears to go above the top surface. A rabbet may work and apply the frame like you would a breadboard end with pegged tenons? This could leave the sides able to expand and contract within the frame. Or make the top a frame and panel and cut a tongue that would interface with a groove on the frame. The tongue would be the upper portion of the top such that a gap is not produced. The other observation is to do a captured panel. providing a small gap surrounding the panel for expansion and contraction. Part of me thinks they didn't do anything to consider wood movement based on the comments on this piece. https://www.invaluable.com/auction-lot/queen-anne-cherrywood-tea-table-new-england-lat-8754abb90f -
By wtnhighlander · Posted
The wood shrinkage calculator at WoodWeb says that species should shrink or expand by 1/16" with a 6% change in MC. I think "Old-Timers" would have simply nailed the molding on, and trusted the flexibility of the nailed joint to keep the panel from doing any real damage. And nails can be replaced as needed. -
Framing solid wood is always a cautionary tale. As the panel gets wider the concern increases. It looks like you are going for a dish effect (outer edge taller than the table surface). Is the 26" the long grain direction? I avoid framing solid panels but, even in my breadboards I use something like your option #2. I attach the front to keep that look constant throughout the seasons and allow the rear to move. Minnesota has actual seasons so I imagine you get decent humidity swings. Using option #2 you could see gaps of up to 1/8" at the rear miter joint. If this will pass muster I would go that way. For more peace of mind I would go with your #3 or simply profile the edge. Both make a significant change to the look of the piece. JMHO ;-)
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