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    • Trying to finish up the base.  This is the current state.  I added curves to the vertical parts of the trestle members and the lower stretchers.  The vertical parts have through mortises for the lower stretchers.  The biggest lesson learned from cutting those curves was that I overestimated my ability to operate a jig saw with thick material.  I already knew that I should have a bandsaw for cuts like those, and this experience did nothing but reinforce that.  Unfortunately, I do not have the space for a bandsaw at this time. The most recent change was to add the upper stretchers with lap joints.  These parts are the first that are not red oak to this point (southern yellow pine).  The idea is that these would be hidden by the top.  I am embedding t-nuts in the top of the trestles for 1/4-20 fasteners that pass through the upper stretchers. The only task left for the base (other than sanding and finishing) is to create the vertical mortises in the lower stretchers and the wedges that will pass through these mortises and press against the outer surfaces of the vertical parts of the trestle members.  The plan is to use cutoffs from the cherry for the top to make the wedges.  I am a little nervous about cutting the mortises because (1) I don't want to mess up the lower stretchers and (2) I have never cut angled mortises.  I guess only one of the four faces of those mortises needs to be angled, but still... After the mortises/wedges, I will start milling the 8/4 cherry for the top.  
    • In any case when cutting plastic with power tools, be prepared for static-charged chips that never go away!
    • Very nice, Ronn!  Making a music box or two is on my woodworking bucket list.  When I finally get around to building one or two I hope they turn out that nice. David
    • I would set the TS blade as low as possible to make the cut, and use a featherboard just ahead of the blade. The just push the pipe through. I'd be more worried about the pipe coming up off the blade, than rotating. If the length is short, maybe clamp it to a straight line ripping sled, aka a tapering sled set to zero degrees.
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