Digital Design

A place to discuss all forms of digital design.

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    Steph Ne
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    • Hi, thanks for the replies. I took another photo of the damage to the legs. Not sure if it's insect damage or just age and mistreatment.  The wood is not soft so I'm guessing it's not fungal. Yes, it lost a stretcher (toddler damage). I'd not really thought of replacing it, as I'm not 100% on what type of wood it is. I'd imagine the construction is pretty basic so not sure it would come apart without further damage. I'll start by cleaning it up as recommended, then report back.
    • Yes, I realized I have enough link belt on hand after I wrote that.
    • I've made good progress on the parallelogram.  This mechanism needs a lot of precise holes and my drill press is junk.  So I'm using a plunge router with a guide bushing and templates to make all the holes. I'm putting the holes for the middle rod that doesn't move directly into the sides of the jointer rather than into a rail.  This means I have to assemble the mechanism in place rather than drop the whole thing in.  Some of the rods need to come out through the front of the jointer anyway so that wouldn't work.  This template has a round piece that locates the template by the hole for the bearing housings. That same template is used for the holes in the pieces that will attach to the infeed table by adding a spacer.  Here you can see that round piece. And here is a test assembly of the links.   You'll note that I'm trying to get by with just one rod at the bottom, rather than linking them together at the bottom.  With this geometry if I made the other link the same as the one by the cutterhead it would be sticking out past the end of the infeed table.  I might have to change this, but we'll get to that in a minute. That lower rod needs to come through the side of the jointer, so I have to make an arc cutout.  I lucked out here in that the flange of the bronze bushings I'm using has the same OD as the guide bushing, 1".  This means I can just use the template I made the holes with as a compass to route the arc. The two clamps acted as stops and I was able to go half way through and flip it over without moving the clamps and do the rest from the other side. That catches us up to the assembly of the case and I have now added in the kerf bent sides.  Of course I took the time to space out the screws evenly and countersink to a uniform depth.  I finished doing those screws back on the table saw with its flat reference surface.  The rolling table in the middle of the shop conforms to the floor.  Before I put in those panels it wouldn't rock when I moved it from the table saw to the table.  After the panels it did rock, but after an hour or two it had settled and didn't rock anymore.  So it's not really stiff enough yet.  I have more bracing to put in on the infeed side that I don't want to put in without the parallelogram finished to make sure there's no interference.  But it's going to be a bit weak in the middle since it's open at the bottom to the chips fall.  So it might never be quite as stiff as I'd like it to be.  It's not going to move from its spot once it's done so I'm not overly worried about it.   And here is the parallelogram with the cast iron temporarily in place, not actually attached.  I wanted to test out how hard it was to move the control rod with the weight of the cast iron on it.  It's not too bad as you have a fair bit of leverage, but the plan was to add some counterweight.  I was going to tie a cord around the lower control rod and run it over the fixed rod at the back and hang a weight on it.  However I found that the amount of force required to lift increased as the table got lower.  A spring would provide increasing force and be a lot more compact.  So here is me tinkering around with just a spring from a desk lamp. That little spring is all it takes to make all that cast iron float and you actually have to push it down at the bottom, but that's well beyond the realistic operating range.  The problem this is really exposing though is that the two long control links are able to twist slightly.  I'm hoping this is going to go away once I tie the links together with a spacer.  If that doesn't completely solve the problem then I'll have to tie the links together at the bottom.  Since I can't tie it to the other existing link, I would have to add a third link in between.  This wouldn't be too big of a deal.  Let's face it, we've reached the point where the project budget is a laughable memory.  May as well throw in some ultra precision shafts at $140 for 36", right?  No, we haven't gotten that far off the rails.  Yet.  I do have a set of micrometers coming to measure that $%^@ing cutterhead though.  Settled on an inexpensive brand that had decent reviews but of course the size I need is the one size with no shipping option that would arrive next week.  Because of course.  So the set of 3 was only twice as much with the coupon anyway.  How annoyed would I be 20 years from now the next time I need to precisely measure something and I only had a 1 to 2 inch micrometer and not a 0 to 1?  I'm sure I'll be able to find them, too.
    • And I have a sound bar with some kind of woofer damn speaker that I have no idea how to operate. And a wireless printer unconnected to my computer that just sits there. At least my 5 gallon water dispenser, not connected to anything, continues to work.  Looking fantastic Paul.
    • It seems like I don't value my own time very much because I did all my own calibration. Probably spent at least 50 hours on it. It's something that really should be done though.
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