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Topics
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Posts
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When I route a profile on a rounded edge I make up a throw-away fence with a matching profile to keep the material well controlled and give me the smoothest cut I can get. This one has a concave curve and a couple of stop blocks since the hand grip profile is a stopped cut. Yours would just be a pie-slice negative for as much of a circle as you see fit to offer control. The other option is a circle jig either riding the table top or supporting it for the router table. This one supports the work and uses a center pin to guide the material. I would prefer this for a large chamfer more than a trammel type circle jig. -
Hello, I'm planning on making a larger dresser, 70" long, 18" deep, and 35" high. When taking the legs out of the conversation I'm basically making a box, 30" high. I'm using red oak that has been milled down to about 3/4" thick. I'm not confident using my normal dowel joinery for the top, bottom, and sides; thing thing will weigh a ton. Dados and rabbets wouldn't seem strong enough so I'm sort of at a loss on what to do. I've not made anything this big before using red oak. Any ideas? -
Nut, that works well with straight cuts, but this case is a round table top. -
Buy a carbide dado. Take care of it and you will have it for a long time. -
I had that exact set years ago. It didn't do the best job. Part of the problem that many people don't pay attention is the fit of the arbor in the arbor hole. It will mess up the uniformity of the stack.
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