Dining Chairs In Walnut


Chestnut

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The time tracking is going to be unintentionally easy to track. I started an Audio book at the beginning of this project and only listen to it in the shop. I have a few books in line so I'll just add the times together.

9 hours ago, roughsawn said:

This is gonna be fun to watch. I'm particularly interested in when/how you contour the seats.

Sorry to disappoint i won't be contouring these seats. Been there done that, it's a lot of work and isn't worth it. This post does detail the process pretty extensively. It's the process that was used by Marc and some others to sculpt the maloof rocker seat.

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15 hours ago, Tom King said:

Anyway, I can send you some pictures or measurements if you like.

Can you measure the distance from the seat back to the bottom of the first back rest? That lower slat location is the one that is making me think the most.

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That 15/16" curve seems like an odd measurement, but I checked three of the chairs, and that's what they all are.  I allowed for the 1/2" setback from the uprights.  The 15/16" was the actual depth of the curve in just the slat.  I don't know the proper terms for the pieces, but I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.

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16 hours ago, Tom King said:

Stellar wasn't much help, but felt like she needed to supervise.

Megan appreciated her "supervision".

10 hours ago, Tom King said:

That 15/16" curve seems like an odd measurement, but I checked three of the chairs, and that's what they all are.  I allowed for the 1/2" setback from the uprights.  The 15/16" was the actual depth of the curve in just the slat.  I don't know the proper terms for the pieces, but I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.

Thank's those measurements are helpful. The 15/16" curve seems like a lot but I might be able to manage that. I'm leaning towards cutting the back slats from the 6/4 stock i have for the chairs. To keep the slats at least 1/2" think it'll be difficult but i might have a trick to make it work.

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A custom builder is in essence building prototypes. And the prototype needs be done to a level of quality fit and finish on the first attempt. I don't build chairs. I would need  several prototypes before I was willing to do it for hire. And no one will pay for the prototypes. And it might be a rabbit hole that I might not find my way out. But I will enjoy watching these walnut chairs come to life.

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On 3/6/2023 at 12:45 PM, Chestnut said:

I told myself i wasn't going to make a prototype. I tried really hard not to make a prototype. Then i realized i needed to make a prototype.

I wasn't sure in the end how the back rest was goign to pan out with the curved slats and the length of the seat as well as the chair height. Our families are short and the chair height needs to be a bit higher than originally anticipated. I wanted to make sure that the seat length would uncomfortable push into the back of the knee. I also wasn't sure where the best location of the back slats would be for comfort.

I haven't made a chair and can't imagine making one without doing a couple of prototypes or having one already made to model it after.

It's awesome that you're taking on this project for your parents and your in-laws! I'd like to build some things for mine as well but the kids sure do slow you down. Looking forward to see these come together.

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1 hour ago, legenddc said:

I haven't made a chair and can't imagine making one without doing a couple of prototypes or having one already made to model it after.

If you have one to model it after that makes things a lot easier. I started with a design from scratch and some rough starting dimensions for the cattail dining chairs i made. Then I made 3-4 prototypes and they were critical at refining the measurements. For this build I'm leaning heavily on that successful design so fewer prototypes are necessary. The prototype was mostly for the differences in back rest design.

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I am thinking of ebonizing my next project, too.  A lot of wood turners do this.  One of the more well regarded turning forum participants speaks highly of Feibing's Leather Dye USMC Black.

https://fiebing.com/product/leather-dye/

It seems easy to apply, and comes ready to use.  I'm also thinking it will be less dependent on tanins (my project will be maple).  Unfortunately, I haven't tryed it yet, or I'd give you some personal feedback. 

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