Pair of Dressers

[gee-dub]

I have been dilly-dallying on these to try to fit a schedule. Today I happened to notice one of those random things we do in the shop. I do a lot of joinery at the tablesaw and at the router table. I don't really care for production work so even when it is just a batch of 14 drawer boxes I will break that effort up with other tasks. When I want to go back I don't want to futz around a lot so I jot things down on a whiteboard.

In this example I simply measure from the router table top to the tip of the bit whatever that may be.

I can remove the chamfer bit (that I will use again later) without worry.

I can then insert the drawer lock bit and set the height per my whiteboard notes.

I can now start confidently cutting joinery.

No magic here but, a real time saver if you have to change setups and know you will be going back.

[wtnhighlander]

I should probably build such a height gauge. I currently go to excessive lengths to avoid changing a machine setup until I am sure I'm done with it.

This brings up a question - do you rely on the scale included on your planer to return to a previous setting, or have you ever tried gauge blocks? I can't imagine how to use a block without the planer running, but it seems like the most accurate method.

[gee-dub]

@wtnhighlander - The gauge does come in handy.  I use a DRO at the planer and get good, repeatable results. 

[Mark J]

12 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

I should probably build such a height gauge.

I'm sure I've seen something like this guage at Rockler (if you'd rather buy then build).

11 hours ago, gee-dub said:

good, repeatable results. 

That's the key, you have to have precise and accurate measurements to return to a previous set up.

[gee-dub]

Moving along I cut some drawer bottoms out of BB ply.

Gluing up more drawer box parts.

Sand and shellac the drawer bottoms, both sides.

Glue up the last four drawer boxes, two bottom drawers for each unit.

Time to start cutting out some false fronts.

Still waffling on the pulls; shop made or commercial.

[gee-dub]

I selected all the fronts from my stock and laid them out with chalk. After a second look (which is my habit) I drew layout lines and broke down the fronts to oversized blanks.

Then I proceeded to joint one face.

I keep a small square on the jointer to allow me to quickly verify the fence after moving the carriage.



All blanks face jointed and the opposite face is planed parallel.

My dad used to keep odd little items around and I would tease him about it. Shame on me . . . I now do the same.

Small wedges let me center false fronts or the piece of scrap I am using to confirm my dimension.

Feeling confident I rip all fronts to final height.

I really wanted to have the fronts in position before I stopped today. Sometimes I win . . . sometimes my back wins. I will cross cut to final length tomorrow and carry on.

[gee-dub]

Here's another look at those small wedges in use. They really let you confirm your reveal.

This is the profile and reveal I am after. It is a variation on what Sam called the "Maloof Round". Sam was a graphic artist before everything else and this softening of the intersection at the reveal made things, according to him, more visually consistent throughout the year. I have found him to be correct and am using it here.

I'm pretty sure I have shown this simple router table push block before. It stabilizes long narrow pieces against the fence while feeding.

It also acts as a backer block. You can see all four corners on the one side have been used a decent amount.

When they become too chewed up you just flip the block and start in on the other side.

I keep a few of them on hand made up from stock that might normally be thrown out (or left by the side of the road). I am down to my last one. I'll have to keep my eye out for someone throwing out some old IKEA cabinets I can cut up to make some more.

At any rate, despite still being rough blanks, I get a drawer front "field" that looks like so.

Time for the other seven . . .

[Coop]

I like your micro fence adjuster on the router table. 
The “Maloof Round” you refer to; is that where the vertical dividers meet the horizontal ones or the reveal of the drawer front edges? 

[gee-dub]

On 3/18/2024 at 6:43 PM, Coop said:

I like your micro fence adjuster on the router table. 
The “Maloof Round” you refer to; is that where the vertical dividers meet the horizontal ones or the reveal of the drawer front edges? 

Yes.  Sam had examples of rounding the drawer dividers, the divider junctions, drawer fronts, or a combination. 

My use of it is a little less dramatic.

 

[Coop]

You’re right. The second pic with the reveal of the first drawer and the next two is a little extreme but kinda looks cool. Thanks for that! 

[Von]

On 3/18/2024 at 9:43 PM, Coop said:

I like your micro fence adjuster on the router table. 

+1. Do you recall where you got it? Looks Rockler blue, but I'm not finding it there.

[fcschoenthal]

On 3/19/2024 at 9:43 AM, Von said:

+1. Do you recall where you got it? Looks Rockler blue, but I'm not finding it there.

Yes, it's Rockler. I have one just like it.

Here's the link to it.

[gee-dub]

Yes, Rockler. I had a shop made one that was functional but a bit clumsy.

I didn’t use it much. The Rockler is well made and easy to use. I find that I use it quite often.

[Von]

On 3/19/2024 at 2:28 PM, fcschoenthal said:

Yes, it's Rockler. I have one just like it.

Here's the link to it.

Thank you both.

[curlyoak]

On 3/18/2024 at 2:25 PM, gee-dub said:

Here's another look at those small wedges in use.

Have you ever tried plastic laminates for spacers/shims?  It is available in two thicknesses. I also use them on shims for drawer slides.

I am enjoying this build. I enjoy and learn from all your posts. Keep them coming!

[gee-dub]

@curlyoak - Thanks for the tip.  Old gift cards and such come in many thicknesses.  I noticed that some stock is right at 1/32".  When I find these I punch a hole in one corner and add them to others I have collected. 

I have done the same with laminate stock, old slats out of mini blinds, and other items.  These things are great for fixed dimensions.  The wedges let me alter the opposing sides on the fly when things are not so precise.

Thanks to all for the comments, tips, and suggestions.  As someone who does this for the enjoyment of doing it the input from others is invaluable.  I have learned so much from other members it feels good to be able to give something back.

[gee-dub]

I know I have been dragging tail on these but with the intent of completing them based on someone else's schedule . So far, so good.  When I am looking to standardize something like a screw hole positions on multiple pieces I will use things at hand. Kind of how you use a coffee can to define a corner round off. I have these cabinet hardware layout templates that a lot of people sell. I am using one designed for centered pulls as a marker for my through holes.

These holes will be used to attach the false fronts along with the through holes for the pulls. I will use something like these oversized washer head screws although I don't recall where I got my gazillion of them years ago.

Here's an odd bird. Lee Valley clearanced these clamps some time ago. A gear clamp with a post that can be swapped in for the fixed jaw clamp pad as required.


Obviously something for a special clamping situation but they work out great on this piece. I think my original intent was to clamp things to the DP fence . . . but I digress.


Once I have the face centered via the wedges and clamped via the step-over clamps I drive the pre-drilled and positioned washer head screws to anchor the drawer face position.

 

Now I just have to do this 13 more times

P.s. Interesting to see the difference in the raw cherry of the frame components that I milled up a couple of months ago next to the drawer fronts from the same batch of cherry but milled up a few days ago.

[curlyoak]

On 3/20/2024 at 10:33 AM, gee-dub said:

When I find these I punch a hole in one corner and add them to others I have collected.

The vertical grade is .028" and the horizontal is .048". Any cabinet shop will give scraps especially when any color will due. The laminate also is an excellent throw away trowel. 

The work is going great. Be sure to sign and date both.

[Von]

Regarding shims: Love the old gift card idea - they also make good glue spreaders. I've also seen playing cards used for shims (might have been the WW). Being recently retired, I'm finding all sorts of uses for my old business cards in the shop: shims, note cards, flush cut protection, epoxy mixing, etc.

[Coop]

I max out a credit card to 1/4” thick and then apply for another one. 

[gee-dub]

I warned you guys that this one was going to drag on a while. . . . Finally got all 14 drawer slides, drawer fronts, and drawer boxes fitted.

I had picked out material for the tops before starting this project. I wasn't happy with my previous choices. You would think that I could find a couple of tops out of this cherry.

Heck with it. I ran to the lumber yard.  $4.20/bf and they are generous with the measurements based on end checks, etc.

Now I am happy. My usual breakdown method works quickly to get me some blanks.

I will be using material that is wider than my jointer. I have not used the planer sled in a while so I had to drag it in from one of the out buildings. This is an old Keith Rust design built in 2007. Still going . . .

Here is one of my modified roller stands. There has been discussion here about fixed tables versus fixed motors on planers. If I did this a lot I would opt for a fixed table. As it stands I think I have used the planer sled twice in the last 5 years. Just some data for your decision-engines.

Despite this floor not having a garage style slope it is still only just so even. I keep fiberglass wedges stuck to the sides of them with magnets.

Once leveled out I run a test piece of material through the operation before I commit to my new material.

OK, looks good.

Here's the 13" wide "keeper" going through.

With 1/32" removed it is close.

Another 1/32" removed leaves me witness-mark free.

I still have a solid 15/16" to work with to get me to the desired ~7/8" thickness for the tops.

[gee-dub]

Continuing to work through the tops. I face joint those boards that are 8" or less. Ya gotta love those long infeed tables.

For wider boards one remembers that ANY extra material only adds to the deviation from flat and square that we are after.

I remove any waste that I know will be removed anyway.

This is done at the bandsaw for rip cuts.

Plenty of kindling for the marshmallow toasting evenings.

The cordless jig saw does duty as a cutoff saw.

I have had an issue with the planer hose for some time. I finally decided now is the time to deal with it.

I use a plumb bob to find the location in the ceiling that will serve my purposes.

Since there is no stud close enough to serve me I will use the leftover hardware from hanging the DC duct work.

Since this connecting point will have a bit of swing to it I want a good, large bearing surface for the drywall. I'm going with this.

I do not remember what the bell shaped washer was from but I am glad I have it in the "misc" box.  The Strong Tie toggle connector goes through a 1/2" hole into the ceiling drywall.

You slide the collar up and snap off the feeder bar.

The 1/4" x 20 screw eye feeds in and washers and a nut take care of torquing things down. Care is take here as you do not want the eye to twist but, you are anchoring to a sandwich press in drywall.

This lets me hold the hose out of the way when required (which isn't often).

When not in use it is just a bungee hanging from the ceiling.

This is just a repeat of the planer sled use previously shown.

I will use the drum sander to finish off the dimensioning while prep'ing the surface for later.

I use one of the bandsaws as a supply surface for the drum sander.

And a cart as the exit support platform.

I layout the rough-width but near-final-thickness parts to double check figure and color matching.

Good thing I did since I mixed up some part orders . . .

My back is screaming at me so I will just let these rest and come back tomorrow to final width and glue up the tops.

[gee-dub]

We've all seen panel glue ups.  As usual I use a bit of tape as opposed to wasting a lot of time cleaning glue off the clamps.

These are just the blanks for the dresser tops.

I scrape off any glue that got embedded into the fibers.

Plane off any high spots.

Feelin' pretty good about it . . .

Doh!  A high spot at one end that I missed.

Now I'm feelin' pretty good about it . . .  

I cannot tell you how much I appreciate these carts as I enter my declining years

You have all seen my little helper that levels long stock when using the sled.  Usually either the magnets (if on cast iron) or the rubber 'paint' are enough to hold things.  I also have counter bore and through holes for oval flat nuts that allow me to fix the board to a slot.  Nothing worse than something heavy moving sometime during a cutting operation when you do not expect it.

I just fix it with a nut driver.

Ta-Da!

Now that the blanks are at final dimensions I can layout the curves.

I cut off the waste with a jig saw.  By the way . . . when you are reaching for the jig saw to put it away, look in that direction.  I was blind reaching and found the pointy end.  I guess if you have to get cut on a power tool it is always better if it is not running.

I use a ball-tailed block and a spoke shave to fair the curves.  I track my progress with a steel rule with a stop affixed.  The spring clamp is just for the photo.

I will put a thumbnail edge on these.  I will do this with a pass from each side using a large router round over bit partially exposed at the router table.  To be sure that there are no subtle irregularities that will telegraph spectacularly via the bearing guide on the router bit I use a flexible sander to assure a fair curve.  If I was better at it I would do this with a shave but I know I can get there this way .

 

I very lightly clamp a long rule to the edge and peek under looking for any light getting through.

Once I am happy with one of them I will use it as a template for the other one.  I double stick tape them together and use a top / bottom bearing flush bit at the router table.

I clamp them temporarily to assure that they stick together well.

Yet another example of the benefit of a co-located router table and tablesaw.  Both tools benefit from the increased table surface area.

Ta-Da!

Ironically I use the off-cuts from the end curves as wedges to part the blanks.

I am now at a consistent thumbnail profile and can continue fairing things in.

Time for lunch.

 

[Coop]

@gee-dub, what is the black bungee looking thing for?
Are your 5 vertical support strips permanently attached to the sled? 

Was there no sign of the ply bowing after 5 years in storage? 
 

[gee-dub]

@Coop - I sent a PM.