Popular Post legenddc Posted December 18, 2023 Popular Post Report Share Posted December 18, 2023 Thought I would try to start a journal on this Shaker Bookcase build. I initially posted some questions about the construction so this may be repetitive if you already saw that. My client (aka 8 year old daughter) has decided on a cherry bookcase similar to this one from Vermont Wood Studios. It will be roughly 73"x36"x14" and have 5 adjustable shelves. A couple of weeks ago I picked up a bunch of 8/4 and 4/4 cherry for it. My sheet of 1/4" cherry for the back and side panels should be coming today or tomorrow. I've been able to mill up the legs already fairly close to final dimensions. They're just under 2" thick at the moment. I still have a a bunch of unmade decisions with this that I'll figure out as I go. Most notably: How to attach the stretchers spanning the width of the bookcase Should I make one shelf non-adjustable to prevent racking How the back attaches to the frame Where to position the frame and panel sides within the legs I'd like to keep the shelves themselves rectangular not with notches to fit around everything so I've been trying to think of the best way to do that. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post legenddc Posted December 18, 2023 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted December 18, 2023 Was looking at options this weekend of where to position the frame and panel sides. Option 1 is flush on the inside of the legs. Leaves the leg looking really thick, maybe too thick No front "frame" to hide shelf pin placement Still would require the shelves to be notched for the 1/4" gap between the frame and panel Option 2 is putting the frame and panel in the middle of the legs. Makes the legs look less thick Provides a ~ 1/2" front frame to hide the shelf pin holes some Shelves would require even more notches depending on how the back is attached. Option 3 would be either run the plywood the whole frame and make the rails/styles on top as really just trim. Option 4 is similar to 3 but making rabbets/dados and putting the plywood in the gap. So some things to decide on fairly quickly here as I have a few days off to work on this. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Askland09 Posted December 18, 2023 Report Share Posted December 18, 2023 Option three would be my go to. Encase the plywood in a frame essentially. Route out the back panel. Call it a day. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted December 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2023 After some thought last night I think I'm going with option 3 but with solid wood for the width of the case. Basically I need to make a 10"x72" board for each side. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 20, 2023 Report Share Posted December 20, 2023 Maybe I'm not seeing the whole design and the scale but the legs look way too chunky for my eyes. 1.5" would be my max on those, i much prefer 1.25" square but that's hard to stomach sometimes. Additionally you could make the legs rectangles and get a lighter front appearance and then the side looks a bit more beefy. 1.25" front face with 2" side. I really like the design. Are you goign to have cross grain rails on the top and bottom? Per racking I'm not sure the fixed shelf will help with that but it will help prevent the sides from bowing out under the weight of books. I'd try and put the fixed shelf in the middle somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted December 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2023 On 12/20/2023 at 9:58 AM, Chestnut said: Maybe I'm not seeing the whole design and the scale but the legs look way too chunky for my eyes. 1.5" would be my max on those, i much prefer 1.25" square but that's hard to stomach sometimes. Additionally you could make the legs rectangles and get a lighter front appearance and then the side looks a bit more beefy. 1.25" front face with 2" side. I really like the design. Are you goign to have cross grain rails on the top and bottom? Per racking I'm not sure the fixed shelf will help with that but it will help prevent the sides from bowing out under the weight of books. I'd try and put the fixed shelf in the middle somewhere. I'm not 100% on the scale either and I think it's why I'm so slow moving with this project. I looked at the dimensions of our dressers and decided the leg thickness was okay but I just measured and realized the legs are rectangular with the skinnier side on the side of the dresser. Never realized until now. I just went downstairs and clamped up the panel with the legs to see how it would look. I was planning to taper the legs at the bottom but again, not 100% sold on that idea. I did finally decide on a rough 1/2" overhang from the panel to the front leg so the shelf pin holes will be less obvious. I will cut the back leg so the panel is flush, allowing for shelves without notches or protrusions. Could easily be scaled down to 1/4" if the legs shrink. When I was going to do a frame and panel on the side I would have had the rails top and bottom. Now that I've changed my mind to a panel I'll go without the cross-grain rails. I hadn't thought about the shelves bowing out. Will incorporate a fixed shelf somehow around the middle to prevent that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted December 20, 2023 Report Share Posted December 20, 2023 When drawing it up different ways, use whole number fractions of the overall width instead of just guessing at a width for the legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 20, 2023 Report Share Posted December 20, 2023 4 minutes ago, legenddc said: I looked at the dimensions of our dressers and decided the leg thickness was okay but I just measured and realized the legs are rectangular with the skinnier side on the side of the dresse Having a cohesive design look between pieces that share a room can be important so I'd try and get close to those dimensions. I like the skinny side facing forward but that could be dependent on many things. Seeing the panel clamped the leg size looks better, the smaller scale of the example pictures skewed them to looking chunky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted December 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2023 Looked at it with a 1.5” piece and it looks better. Thankfully I had a scrap piece around. Ran the side panels through my dad’s drum sander before. Will sneak some time in on it the next few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 21, 2023 Report Share Posted December 21, 2023 It’s been a long day so correct me if I misread. You’re using 1/4” ply for the back and for the side panels? Although it doesn’t look bad as pictured but, wouldn’t a bottom rail on the sides give better protection to the bottom of the side panel, especially in a child’s room? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted December 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2023 1/4” for the back and solid 3/4” for the sides. Still waiting for the plywood. It’s in but the guy won’t tell me when I can swing by to pick it up. Keeps saying he’ll drop it off for me. Saw his truck earlier when we were driving home but wasn’t able to pull up next to him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post legenddc Posted September 25 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted September 25 It’s embarrassing how long this thread has gone without an update. Now armed with a Domino and indecision I decided to make a test piece and see how this looks. I’m making the back leg flush with the side piece so it will have to get cut skinnier to keep the same reveal as the front. I did a quick test of the shelf pin jig but neglected to make sure the bottom of my test piece was cut 90* to the sides. Last thing to decide on this part is how to place the back panel. I will make a rabbet in the back. Thinking I’ll make it deeper than the 1/4” ply in case I need to put some pieces of solid wood behind it to keep the back straight. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post legenddc Posted November 14 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted November 14 Getting back to working on this finally. Two nights ago I cut the side panels to length with the help of my wife to keep the boards from tilting down on the crosscut sled. Last night I cut the legs to length and put Domino slots in the legs and panels to align them. I foolishly cut the ones on the front legs without changing their placement so now I have some holes to fill. They’ll never be seen so I think epoxy will work fine. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted November 14 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 14 On 9/25/2024 at 7:01 AM, legenddc said: It’s embarrassing how long this thread has gone without an update. It happens. Life goes on whether we have a project in mid-flight or not . Looks like thongs are moving along again. I agree that a fixed shelf somewhere in the middle can be a stabilizing element in tall shelf units. Thanks for keeping us updated. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post legenddc Posted November 14 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted November 14 On 11/14/2024 at 8:21 AM, gee-dub said: It happens. Life goes on whether we have a project in mid-flight or not . Looks like thongs are moving along again. I agree that a fixed shelf somewhere in the middle can be a stabilizing element in tall shelf units. Thanks for keeping us updated. Hoping I can get enough time to get this fully built before Thanksgiving. Ideally with some sanding done too. I want it completely out of my shop by Dec. 13th as I have the next week off and would like to make some stuff for Christmas. I will be making the second or third shelf up fixed. Really enjoying being back in the shop. I typically call it quits around 10 PM due to noise. I felt like I could have stayed up all night last night working on it but didn't because of the noise. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted November 14 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 14 I'm powering through a project for the holidays as well. I try to remember that after this holiday season has come and gone I will be living with the piece for many more. I would love to get it done but If I don't make it, it will be OK . 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mark J Posted November 15 Popular Post Report Share Posted November 15 Yeah, I'd rather take a break from a big, complicated project and deal with "distractions", then have to take that break to deal with a mistake. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted November 15 Author Report Share Posted November 15 Last night I got the mortises cut for the remainder of the side panels. Almost made a few mistakes so I decided to quit when I was still ahead. I'll be okay if this isn't done by Thanksgiving. I just don't want to end up off for a week and unable to use my shop because I'm applying finish. Much rather apply coats of finish during a lunch break from work. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post legenddc Posted November 16 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted November 16 Was able to make the rabbets for the back panel yesterday after work. Since the back legs are flush with the side panel and the front legs overhang the side panel I had to trim the outside of the back legs. Hopefully this pic makes more sense where you can see the pencil in the gap. With those even, I needed to make the bottom inside of the rear legs back to the same size as the front legs so the taper matches the front. I’ve changed my mind on leg thickness far too many times. I think some cutting boards with cherry strips are in my future. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted November 17 Report Share Posted November 17 You're rockin' it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post legenddc Posted November 26 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted November 26 Went to our community workshop this weekend to use their large jointer. Apparently it’s only 10.5”, not 12. I need 11.25” wide shelves. Did what I could with my limited time there. Also met a lady who I’ve seen at the pool who was working on a cool Four Eyes furniture project. Yesterday I tapered the legs. Today I spent a 2-3 hours milling lumber for the shelves. I only need one for the fixed shelf but ended up milling everything. I have two shelves in clamps and the next 3 waiting to be glued up. Should have them all glued up tonight. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted November 26 Report Share Posted November 26 2 hours ago, legenddc said: Apparently it’s only 10.5”, not 12. I need 11.25” wide shelves. How did you resolve this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post legenddc Posted November 26 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted November 26 On 11/26/2024 at 5:51 PM, Mark J said: How did you resolve this? Cut the boards in half. I didn’t think taking the guard off of the community workshop would go over well. I’ve done that on my 6” jointer and then used a planer sled but on 11” boards there’s not enough support. GeeDub has a planer sled that would allow it to be flattened in the planer but I haven’t made it yet. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post legenddc Posted November 28 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted November 28 All the shelves were glued up on Tuesday. This morning I installed the fixed shelf. All of the shelves are ready to come with us to my parents house. Will be using my dad’s drum sander tomorrow. When I’m back I’ll drill the shelf pin holes and start sanding the side panels and legs before I glue them up. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post legenddc Posted Tuesday at 05:24 PM Author Popular Post Report Share Posted Tuesday at 05:24 PM Friday I got all of the shelves and the top through the drum sander. The rest of the weekend time in the shop has been sanding. Decided it was best to glue up the back leg to the side panel and then sand that flush. Got the second side in clamps just now. First side is out and has been sanded to 120. Will finish sanding this side and then glue the pre-sanded front leg. I’m sure scraping and sanding the glue from the inside quarters will take a while. Only able to get in 60-90 minutes a night to sand due to the noise. Weekend is swamped with activities so I’m sure I’ll be showing up to activities with respirator marks on my face. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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