Popular Post legenddc Posted December 18, 2023 Popular Post Report Share Posted December 18, 2023 Thought I would try to start a journal on this Shaker Bookcase build. I initially posted some questions about the construction so this may be repetitive if you already saw that. My client (aka 8 year old daughter) has decided on a cherry bookcase similar to this one from Vermont Wood Studios. It will be roughly 73"x36"x14" and have 5 adjustable shelves. A couple of weeks ago I picked up a bunch of 8/4 and 4/4 cherry for it. My sheet of 1/4" cherry for the back and side panels should be coming today or tomorrow. I've been able to mill up the legs already fairly close to final dimensions. They're just under 2" thick at the moment. I still have a a bunch of unmade decisions with this that I'll figure out as I go. Most notably: How to attach the stretchers spanning the width of the bookcase Should I make one shelf non-adjustable to prevent racking How the back attaches to the frame Where to position the frame and panel sides within the legs I'd like to keep the shelves themselves rectangular not with notches to fit around everything so I've been trying to think of the best way to do that. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post legenddc Posted December 18, 2023 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted December 18, 2023 Was looking at options this weekend of where to position the frame and panel sides. Option 1 is flush on the inside of the legs. Leaves the leg looking really thick, maybe too thick No front "frame" to hide shelf pin placement Still would require the shelves to be notched for the 1/4" gap between the frame and panel Option 2 is putting the frame and panel in the middle of the legs. Makes the legs look less thick Provides a ~ 1/2" front frame to hide the shelf pin holes some Shelves would require even more notches depending on how the back is attached. Option 3 would be either run the plywood the whole frame and make the rails/styles on top as really just trim. Option 4 is similar to 3 but making rabbets/dados and putting the plywood in the gap. So some things to decide on fairly quickly here as I have a few days off to work on this. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Askland09 Posted December 18, 2023 Report Share Posted December 18, 2023 Option three would be my go to. Encase the plywood in a frame essentially. Route out the back panel. Call it a day. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted December 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2023 After some thought last night I think I'm going with option 3 but with solid wood for the width of the case. Basically I need to make a 10"x72" board for each side. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 20, 2023 Report Share Posted December 20, 2023 Maybe I'm not seeing the whole design and the scale but the legs look way too chunky for my eyes. 1.5" would be my max on those, i much prefer 1.25" square but that's hard to stomach sometimes. Additionally you could make the legs rectangles and get a lighter front appearance and then the side looks a bit more beefy. 1.25" front face with 2" side. I really like the design. Are you goign to have cross grain rails on the top and bottom? Per racking I'm not sure the fixed shelf will help with that but it will help prevent the sides from bowing out under the weight of books. I'd try and put the fixed shelf in the middle somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted December 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2023 On 12/20/2023 at 9:58 AM, Chestnut said: Maybe I'm not seeing the whole design and the scale but the legs look way too chunky for my eyes. 1.5" would be my max on those, i much prefer 1.25" square but that's hard to stomach sometimes. Additionally you could make the legs rectangles and get a lighter front appearance and then the side looks a bit more beefy. 1.25" front face with 2" side. I really like the design. Are you goign to have cross grain rails on the top and bottom? Per racking I'm not sure the fixed shelf will help with that but it will help prevent the sides from bowing out under the weight of books. I'd try and put the fixed shelf in the middle somewhere. I'm not 100% on the scale either and I think it's why I'm so slow moving with this project. I looked at the dimensions of our dressers and decided the leg thickness was okay but I just measured and realized the legs are rectangular with the skinnier side on the side of the dresser. Never realized until now. I just went downstairs and clamped up the panel with the legs to see how it would look. I was planning to taper the legs at the bottom but again, not 100% sold on that idea. I did finally decide on a rough 1/2" overhang from the panel to the front leg so the shelf pin holes will be less obvious. I will cut the back leg so the panel is flush, allowing for shelves without notches or protrusions. Could easily be scaled down to 1/4" if the legs shrink. When I was going to do a frame and panel on the side I would have had the rails top and bottom. Now that I've changed my mind to a panel I'll go without the cross-grain rails. I hadn't thought about the shelves bowing out. Will incorporate a fixed shelf somehow around the middle to prevent that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted December 20, 2023 Report Share Posted December 20, 2023 When drawing it up different ways, use whole number fractions of the overall width instead of just guessing at a width for the legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted December 20, 2023 Report Share Posted December 20, 2023 4 minutes ago, legenddc said: I looked at the dimensions of our dressers and decided the leg thickness was okay but I just measured and realized the legs are rectangular with the skinnier side on the side of the dresse Having a cohesive design look between pieces that share a room can be important so I'd try and get close to those dimensions. I like the skinny side facing forward but that could be dependent on many things. Seeing the panel clamped the leg size looks better, the smaller scale of the example pictures skewed them to looking chunky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted December 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2023 Looked at it with a 1.5” piece and it looks better. Thankfully I had a scrap piece around. Ran the side panels through my dad’s drum sander before. Will sneak some time in on it the next few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted December 21, 2023 Report Share Posted December 21, 2023 It’s been a long day so correct me if I misread. You’re using 1/4” ply for the back and for the side panels? Although it doesn’t look bad as pictured but, wouldn’t a bottom rail on the sides give better protection to the bottom of the side panel, especially in a child’s room? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legenddc Posted December 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2023 1/4” for the back and solid 3/4” for the sides. Still waiting for the plywood. It’s in but the guy won’t tell me when I can swing by to pick it up. Keeps saying he’ll drop it off for me. Saw his truck earlier when we were driving home but wasn’t able to pull up next to him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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