Looking for advice: slabs for a Rubio style bench

[Von]

I have dreams of building a Rubio-style bench this year or next. I'm exploring the option of making the top out of a couple of slabs. I reached out to a local sawmill. They offered can cut me a couple 4 1/2" x 12" x 8' slabs out of green oak for a couple hundred bucks (total I think, might be each). I asked over the phone about other woods and they said they might have some hickory. The person on the phone wasn't very confident, so I plan to go visit.

I'm seeking thoughts on any of the following:

* I've worked with oak plenty and I worry it's too porous for a workbench top?

* I don't have experience with hickory but understand its very hard?

* I'm shooting for a 7' top and assuming I'll lose some of the slab ends to checking - is 8' long enough?

* What sort of overage should I be thinking on the width and thickness? Is 1" enough?

* I'm guessing there are particular ways to mill the slabs out of the tree that are preferable and not so preferable?

* Any thoughts on how long I'm going to need to air dry a "green" slab? If I go the slab route, I doubt I'll find anyone with the right slab already dried. Maybe I try to arrange a kiln dry?

* Am I just nuts going the slab route?

* What am I not thinking of?

Thanks in advance.

 

[legenddc]

Matt Cremona sells workbench kits out of slabs so you're not the first person to have this idea. They're a lot more expensive but they are dry. 

[wtnhighlander]

1. Air-drying a slab so thick will take a loooong time.

2. Slabs cut from either side of the pith will have quarterd grain, about as stable as it gets.

3. 1" over may not be enough from a truly green slab.

4. Before selecting the lumber, watch these:

 

I have met Jay in person, and I asked about these benches. He told me the pine is his favorite, by far. The hickory is so hard / rigid that it causes rebound when whacking a chisel.

Red oak is probably too porous and splintery, white oak might be ok. For hardwoods, maple and cherry are two good options, being not too hard, and uniform in grain.

My choice was to use spruce, and consider it a wear item. I often find it convenient to screw a workpiece or fixture to the bench, and the screw holes disappear from the soft spruce. It is also easy to resurface with a hand plane. My use is not heavy, and my bench is perfectly servicable after a decade, but I'm about ready to make a new one with different features.

There is my $0.02 worth.

[Von]

On 3/28/2024 at 8:18 PM, wtnhighlander said:

There is my $0.02 worth.

Thank you!

[Von]

On 3/28/2024 at 5:49 PM, legenddc said:

Matt Cremona sells workbench kits out of slabs so you're not the first person to have this idea. They're a lot more expensive but they are dry. 

Yes indeed, Matt inspired me in this direction and ordering from him is an option I'm keeping in mind since it is seeming likely I'm not going to find anything the right size and dried locally. I admit the logistics of receiving a freight shipment seem a little daunting but there is a first time for everything.

[Von]

On 3/28/2024 at 8:18 PM, wtnhighlander said:

4. Before selecting the lumber, watch these:

Thanks again, those were very useful videos. I like Jay Bates work in general and these lived up. Has me leaning towards Southern Yellow Pine or Douglas Fir, both of which are easy to get at Lowes/Menards in the form of 8' 2x10s for <$200.

I'll also found a slab-top bench video from Cremona that was good watching. A slab top would be sexy, but I'm figuring out how hard it is to source locally and expensive to order. I'd like to support Matt, but ~$2k for something I'd possibly screw up is tough. Maybe for my third bench in another 20 years...

And of course Marc has the Hybrid Workbench video in the TWW Guild for which Bell Forest sells a lumber kit.

[Nandrey]

Oak is strong but can be too porous for a workbench top. Hickory is super hard but tough to work with if you're not experienced. An 8' slab should be fine for a 7' top, allowing for checking. An extra inch in width and thickness is smart. Air drying green slabs takes years; kiln drying is faster if you can arrange it. 

[Ron Swanson Jr.]

@Von when i started collecting wood for my bench, i automatically went to hard maple because... That's what i had always believed. Benches should be made with a HARD species. 

Then i started doing research, and i think it was Marc (the wood whisperer) who extolled the virtues of soft maple because it's still plenty hard enough for a bench top, but will respond better to hand planing for flattening. It's also slightly more forgiving to work with. So i went that route and it's been a great choice so far. 

I realize that doesn't touch on your post about using oak. I probably wouldn't use oak for the reasons others have listed. Many have stated that it's porous, and all those pores are going to fill with dust, etc. So I'd avoid that and also anything that isn't fully dried already. 

If you're aiming for a slab thickness around 4", make sure that every board you buy is either right about 5", or right about 10". That way you'll minimize waste when you mill it. 

I tried to stay away from 4/4, and used 8/4 stock. Less laminations that way. 

If your planning on Benchcrafted vices, they sell a "Bench maker's package" that includes their plan and knockdown hardware for the base, along with the vises of course. I didn't use the knockdown hardware because that stuff is fussy and tough to get exactly perfect. 

Obviously, I'm still in the middle of this build. I have some definite thoughts on how I'd go about doing the dovetail on the slab end cap if i were to do it again. 

Good luck man!

 

[Enzo Caleb]

Building a Rubio-style bench from slabs sounds like an awesome project! Here are some thoughts on your questions:

1. Oak for Workbench: Oak is porous, but it’s commonly used for workbench tops due to its durability and strength. You might want to consider filling the pores with wood filler or epoxy if you're concerned about it.

2. Hickory: Hickory is indeed hard and durable, making it a great choice for a bench, but it can be difficult to work with due to its density. It might be more challenging to plane and cut compared to oak.

3. Slab Length: If you're aiming for a 7’ top, 8’ is likely enough, but it depends on the amount you lose to checking. Consider allowing a little extra length just in case.

4. Overage: For thickness, 1” might be too thin depending on the final dimensions and use. Aim for at least 1.5–2” to ensure strength. For width, it's good to have extra for trimming.

5. Milling Slabs: Look for quartersawn slabs for better stability and less warping. It’s best to avoid flat-sawn slabs as they may cup more easily. Also, ensure that the slabs are dried properly to reduce warping.

6. Drying Time: Green wood can take a year or more to air-dry properly. Kiln drying would speed up the process significantly but can be costly.

7. Going the Slab Route: Slabs are a fantastic, rustic choice for a bench, but they require more effort in terms of drying and milling. It’s not crazy—just be prepared for the work involved!

8. What You’re Missing: Pay attention to wood movement as slabs dry. Consider seasoning your wood for at least 6 months to a year if air drying. Make sure you have access to the right equipment or help for flattening and planing thick slabs.

Overall, it’s a challenging but rewarding project. Best of luck!