how to stain Brich Plywood?


Manny_e

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I am a newbie, well 1st DIY woodwork project. As my first project, selected to build an 8ft bar using birch plywood. I read that birch is hard to stain. I will like to give it a good dark color. So, At this point I am testing on wood scraps, to get the right color. However, I am running into issue on getting a deep dark color using Gel oil stain and a pre-stain from MinWax. I am follow the manufacture instructions. Also, I have read, viewed videos, etc. for the last week or so. However, the wood seems to only get a light color. So this is what I am doing in a nutshell;

 

- using a RO sander with 220 sandpaper to a very smooth to the touch

- using pre-stain and let it dry for about 5 min wipe off any excess  

- Apply a 1st coat of gel stain with foam brush and wipe off the excess w/ paper-towel

- After one hr. or so apply a 2nd coat

- let dry for a few hrs

 

I know I am doing something incorrect, perhaps too much sanding or the process of wood conditioner and staining is off.

 

So my questions:

How much sanding or how can I tell the right amount of sanding?

Is 220 sanding too fine or using a RO sanding too much?

- Should I not use pre-stain wood conditioner?

- Do I need a light (hand sand or RO sanding) sand after each coat, i.e. after pre-stain and after each stain coat?

 

Any suggestions tips are appreciated.

   

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Sanding to 220 grit kind of polishes the wood and it will absorb less stain. It is difficult for me to get an even dark color on birch even with 40 years experience. Pre stains will give you a more even color, but it will be lighter overall.

Sand to 120 or 150 by hand going with the grain. Practice on scraps ! Try using a dye. I spray an alcohol based dye for really dark colors. Some finishers use a medium brown dye under a stain to get a richer layered result.

A lot of factory furniture uses tinted finishes to create a dark rich finish. It usually ends up hiding most of the grain. Minwax Polyshades is one type of a tinted finish.

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Sanding to 220 grit kind of polishes the wood and it will absorb less stain. It is difficult for me to get an even dark color on birch even with 40 years experience. Pre stains will give you a more even color, but it will be lighter overall.

Sand to 120 or 150 by hand going with the grain. Practice on scraps ! Try using a dye. I spray an alcohol based dye for really dark colors. Some finishers use a medium brown dye under a stain to get a richer layered result.

A lot of factory furniture uses tinted finishes to create a dark rich finish. It usually ends up hiding most of the grain. Minwax Polyshades is one type of a tinted finish.

 

Thank you very much Mr. Duncan. This helps a lot.    :)
 
So basically, hand-sand (120 to 150) & pre-stain then stain. 
 
I am using a gel stain and the results were much better. Also, used a MinWax Ployshade with good results, waiting to for the test to dry-out... then apply the finish protective clear coat....
 
Now the challenge is getting the process right and color the way we want (i mean the wife wants :D ). Still testing and practice, running out of wood scraps...   
 
Question:
- is there a governing rule how long the stain should stay on before wiping-off the excess or following the manufacturer instructions will give the desired results?  :o
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If there is a governing rule for how long stain should stay on, it would have to make too many assumptions about the many varieties of wood.  One problem is stain drying up on the surface because it wasn't absorbed fast enough.  I've given up and now test everything first:  Same wood, same level of sanding, hopefully same weather conditions during test and project.  Humidity and temperature differences can have surprisingly significant effects.

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