CJC5151 Posted October 4, 2010 Report Posted October 4, 2010 I am looking for a technique on filling the pores of walnut. Ive watched marc's video on his re-finishing segment but im not sure either method is right for my situation. I have a blanket chest made out of walnut and leopardwood, and im looking a filling the pores of the walnut especially the top. the problem is I incorporated sapwood into the design of the product so the last thing I want to do is darken that with a colored filler or the heartwood dust if I wet sand with a varnish. Any help I can get from you guys would be great Quote
BillN Posted October 4, 2010 Report Posted October 4, 2010 I am looking for a technique on filling the pores of walnut. Ive watched marc's video on his re-finishing segment but im not sure either method is right for my situation. I have a blanket chest made out of walnut and leopardwood, and im looking a filling the pores of the walnut especially the top. the problem is I incorporated sapwood into the design of the product so the last thing I want to do is darken that with a colored filler or the heartwood dust if I wet sand with a varnish. Any help I can get from you guys would be great I believe Behlens makes a neutral pore filler in either an oil or water (or perhaps both) mix. I have used the water based filler ans it is quite bland (my situation required the addition of dye). Try some of that on a scrap. Keep in mind that the water based product dries quite quickly so you want to get back to the wood surface before it completely sets up or you will be in for quite a bit of sanding. Work in small areas as opposed to doing the whole thing all at once. Quote
CJC5151 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Posted October 4, 2010 I believe Behlens makes a neutral pore filler in either an oil or water (or perhaps both) mix. I have used the water based filler ans it is quite bland (my situation required the addition of dye). Try some of that on a scrap. Keep in mind that the water based product dries quite quickly so you want to get back to the wood surface before it completely sets up or you will be in for quite a bit of sanding. Work in small areas as opposed to doing the whole thing all at once. see that is my dilema. i guess what im wondering, is there a clear pore filler out there or does the behlens dry clear? Quote
BillN Posted October 4, 2010 Report Posted October 4, 2010 Ask and ye shall receive. http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/CPF-2530/CrystaLac-Wood-Grain-Filler 1. Google should be considered a national treasure. 2. I have no idea if this stuff is any good. Quote
CJC5151 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Posted October 4, 2010 Ask and ye shall receive. http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/CPF-2530/CrystaLac-Wood-Grain-Filler 1. Google should be considered a national treasure. 2. I have no idea if this stuff is any good. thanks sounds like what im looking for ill give it a shot. ever use the stuff before, from the ad is sounds like a new concept Quote
HoboMonk Posted October 5, 2010 Report Posted October 5, 2010 Pumice and BLO, or pumice and shellac - a classic that I've used for decades. Quote
CJC5151 Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Posted October 5, 2010 Pumice and BLO, or pumice and shellac - a classic that I've used for decades. how do you have any working time with pumice and shallac Quote
HoboMonk Posted October 5, 2010 Report Posted October 5, 2010 I apply the pumice/shellac slurry with a quick wipe or two across the grain with a rubber squeegee or a stiff short fan brush. It's a technique I learned from doing Japanese finishes with wiped lacquer, called fuki urushi. Keep a spray bottle of denatured alcohol handy, if needed, to keep the finish soft until you have spread it. Allow it to dry, then level with sandpaper. Quote
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