Rust on new Table Saw??


TMFoughty

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Over this past winter I purchased a Craftsman Table Saw. It is a decent size unit with a cast iron table top. I have noticed that there are some surface rust spots after a couple months (Live in Central Ohio).

A couple questions... 1.) Is there a way to prevent this from occuring? 2.) What should I use to clean the rust off? And 3.) Can you put anything on the table top to help the wood slide easier?

Thanks in advance...

Todd

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To remove the rust I'd try Naval Jelly and 0000 steel wool. McGuires makes good rust removal products as well. Try to get it all but don't overdo it and dig depressions in your table top.

Once you remove the rust, apply a good coat of paste wax to the top. I use Butchers wax. I think is the same wax that bowling alleys use, it's as hard as nails when it dries. Apply as you would any paste wax, let it dry to a dull finish then buff of the excesss (just as you'd wax your car).

The wax coating will help prevent future rust issues AND will allow the wood to slide easier. Reapply as necessary.

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I have had the same problem, however things in Alabama rust worse in the summer with the high humidity. I have used WD40 (or any oil in a pinch), and buffed the whole table top with a 000 steal wool. I find that the 0000 wools are great once the rust is off of the table and you are ready for the final polishing before the wax coat. WORD TO THE WISE: The more oil or WD40 or whatever you use, the less agressive the steal wool will be. Therefor, if you are using a 000 or 0000 on a surface with very little oil or other lubricant it will be very agressive and will scratch the heck out of the table top.

After cleaning the surface with the steal wool, coat the table with wax, let dry and buff. I know many people that use the Johnson wax. It comes in a past and a spray.

Let us know how it comes out.

Jeff

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Back in 2004 (March issue) Wood Magazine had an aritcle on this. They tested 14 different products. Their conclusion was that Boeshield Rust-Free was best at getting the rust off and Boeshield T-9 was best at keeping it off. I have used both and they are very good. The T-9 indicates you can either spray and allow to dry for a thick coat or spray and wipe for a thin coat. I tried the spray and allow to dry method and the problem is that it actually makes the top a little sticky. However, the spray and wipe method works great. I spray it on about once a month or so and wipe it off with a wad of paper towels going back over it a few times. I also make sure the throat plate and the miter slots get some as well. The Boeshield stuff is available at Woodcraft.

I have also waxed the top on occasion. I think all the products posted here work to a greater or lesser degree. They key is to make it easy enough to keep a protective coating on that you won't put it aside and then have to fight the rust. The Boeshield T-9 takes about 30 seconds to cover the top and wipe off.

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  • 4 weeks later...

BillN has it right; I have used the following approach:

Spray with Boeshield Rust Remover (wear a respirator, this stuff stinks!). Use a sanding sponge to remove the rust.

Next, apply Boeshield T9 and buff off.

Next, apply a coat of silicon free wax to reduce friction.

The Boeshield products can be picked up as a bundle from your local sears hardware.

the sanding sponges I got from the rust store (Sand flex rust erase 3 pack)

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