denm31 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 hello, i have never used oil based stain, the only reason i did this time was due to not reading the lable. was more interested in matching the color on the samples they had.built a computer desk out of pine sanded the heck out of it , applied a coat of stain, sanded again, applied second coat. have the color i wanted to get, but it did dry with a little bit of a sheen to it, the finish is kind of rough to the touch, if i give it another light sanding could i just use butchers wax on the finish, or do i need to use some thing else. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhochstein Posted April 23, 2011 Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 You should have all your sanding complete before staining. You really don't want to sand after staining because you will likely sand through the stain at some points and have a very uneven look. Stain is not a finish, it's just a colorant. You still need to apply a finish with the sheen you desire. Since you used an oil based stain, you probably want to stick with an oil based finish too. I did notice yesterday though that Minwax has some out with an Oil-Modified Water borne polyurethane. The direction on the can say that if you apply it over an oil-based stain to wait at least 24 hours. This is something I have been preaching for a while, but conventional wisdom has always been to avoid water-based finishes over oil-based stains unless you use a shellac sealer between, but I think that is all based on old data with the original water-based finishes of yore. You can use the Butchers wax if you like, but it won't provide much protection at all. For a computer desk made from Pine, I would probably just go with polyurethane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denm31 Posted April 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 You should have all your sanding complete before staining. You really don't want to sand after staining because you will likely sand through the stain at some points and have a very uneven look. Stain is not a finish, it's just a colorant. You still need to apply a finish with the sheen you desire. Since you used an oil based stain, you probably want to stick with an oil based finish too. I did notice yesterday though that Minwax has some out with an Oil-Modified Water borne polyurethane. The direction on the can say that if you apply it over an oil-based stain to wait at least 24 hours. This is something I have been preaching for a while, but conventional wisdom has always been to avoid water-based finishes over oil-based stains unless you use a shellac sealer between, but I think that is all based on old data with the original water-based finishes of yore. You can use the Butchers wax if you like, but it won't provide much protection at all. For a computer desk made from Pine, I would probably just go with polyurethane. Thank you for the advice, did get some polyuratane was trying get get every thing done before easter, was trying to rush things, so i did give desk top and drawers a very light sandning with 320 grit paper and it feels alot better to the touch, wiped it cannot see any scratches in stain, will try to take the time now to do the poly finish, thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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