CessnaPilotBarry Posted January 6, 2013 Report Posted January 6, 2013 A quick and easy to build shooting board I plan to use with my Veritas low angle smooth plane. It's simply two thicknesses of 3/4" MDF, quartersawn white oak fences and a cleat, and some paraffin in the sliding areas. The three views show it in 90 degee mode, with the 45 degree fence stowed, as well as horizontal and vertical 45 degree mode. It's about 12 inches x 16 inches overall. I built this mainly for boxes and box liner and dividers. 1 Quote
tdale51@yahoo.com Posted January 7, 2013 Report Posted January 7, 2013 I like it, 90degree, 45 degree and donkey's ear all in one! Quote
Eric. Posted January 7, 2013 Report Posted January 7, 2013 One question, though...I see how you attached the 45* fence to the 90* fence in vertical mode, but how do you attach it in horizontal and 90* (stowed) mode? Or do you? Didn't see any holes to bolt into for those operations. I need to build one of these. Quote
Bobby Slack Posted January 7, 2013 Report Posted January 7, 2013 I need to build one of these once and for all for my boxes and picture frames. Thank you for inspiring. Next time I go to the lumber yard I will get me some qs white oak. Quote
CessnaPilotBarry Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Posted January 7, 2013 One question, though...I see how you attached the 45* fence to the 90* fence in vertical mode, but how do you attach it in horizontal and 90* (stowed) mode? Or do you? Didn't see any holes to bolt into for those operations. There same screws are used to mount the 45 degree block all three ways. Look closely, you'll see some grouped lines. Those help me align fence in each position, so the screw holes align easily. The screw holes in the 45 degree block are countersunk on both faces. As I look again, I realize I took the one photo before I installed the 45 degree fence in the two usable positions. So, GREAT catch! Quote
Eric. Posted January 7, 2013 Report Posted January 7, 2013 Gotcha. Did you use countersunk nuts for that since I'm assuming tapping threads in MDF wouldn't be so great? Quote
CessnaPilotBarry Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Posted January 7, 2013 Gotcha. Did you use countersunk nuts for that since I'm assuming tapping threads in MDF wouldn't be so great? I didn't bother, but that would definitely work. The main fence and cleat are screwed from the top and bottom. The cleat is also glued. The 45 degree fence pushes against the main and floor when in use, so it's not a stressful joint. In donkey ear mode, it's screwed oak to oak. If the 45 degree fence eventually moves when used in horizontal mode, I'll probably add a screw into the main fence, so that will also be an oak to oak screw connection. I could also harden the reusable screw holes in the MDF with CA glue. When attaching the main fence, I mounted the jig in the vice with the left 2" hanging off the bench, and installed the right most screw from the top. I then clamped the left end of the fence in place, and shot some 90 degree ends. Leaving the clamp tight, I adjusted the fence with a mallet. Once I was happy with my test, I drilled holes, and installed the rest of the top screws, flipped the jig over, and screwed through the bottom into the fence. Whenever I can, when screwing solid wood to MDF, I like to partially countersink the hidden end of the hole in the wood part. This gives MDF, pushed out of the hole as the screw threads in, someplace to go without pushing the parts apart. Quote
nateswoodworks Posted January 12, 2013 Report Posted January 12, 2013 I need to make a new donkeys ear so this caught my attention. Do you have any problems with the stock sliding around in the donkey ear position, I ask simply because there is such a small amount of area for the fence to supprt and stabilize the stock? The one I have now is somewhat like your, I am thinking my next may be like this http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=121859&d=1246215362 Quote
CessnaPilotBarry Posted January 12, 2013 Author Report Posted January 12, 2013 I need to make a new donkeys ear so this caught my attention. Do you have any problems with the stock sliding around in the donkey ear position, I ask simply because there is such a small amount of area for the fence to supprt and stabilize the stock? Not yet, but I built this mainly to do mitered corners and birdsmouth joints in thin (1/16"-1/8") box liner stock and small parts. Most of these parts aren't wider than 2-3" I saved the offcut from the insert, and was thinking of gluing or screwing it to the DE section to double the width. This is a pretty small, specialized version, not meant to cover all uses. With larger boards, it would definitely be a problem. Quote
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