Stopped Rabbet jig

[JoshC1501]

I am building some really nice cornhole boards for myself and friends.  I wanted the the plywood top to sit flush with the maple frame, so the edges of the plywood are not exposed.

 

On my first trial out of pine, I was having a hard time getting consistent stops clamped to ensure that the rabbeting bit didn't go clear through the end of the work piece.

 

I made two of these, one for each end of the board.  Attaches to the t-track that I integrated into my workbench. The stop block could be made bigger if the stop was further from the end of the work piece, but this will get me about 2.5" from the end piece.  

 

Using it for the first time today, seems to work well.  I am sure I will make improvements on it in the future.   I think it would also work well for profiling bits to ensure you don't round the corner.  Which I am know to do!

 

Thought I would share.

 

Josh 

[PeteJr]

Josh, Looks like you have a t track in your table top.  Is that correct?

[JoshC1501]

I do and have found it to be pretty useful thus far.  Just built that bench top maybe a month or two ago.  

[Andrew Pritchard]

I'm considering building a bench as a winter project. I had considered bench dogs, but maybe I'll build a t-track in instead/as well.

 

Pretty cool Josh!

[JoshC1501]

I have dog holes as well. I don't think the t-track is exactly a replacement but it's great for jigs and holding work down. I keep finding new uses. There is a picture of my bench in the recent workbench thread.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

[g_glasson]

I may be missing something completely obvious here, but why not make the frame first and then use the router to cut the rebate afterwards? That way you wouldn't have to worry about going off the end of the work piece. Naturally I'm assuming that your rebate bit set has a bearing on the top which could run along the inside of the frame.