Clint Brickl

That saw, while on a stand, looks more like a job site saw than a true contractor's saw. I use a Delta contractor's table saw and have no problem with any type of dadoes or rabbets. Back to the question though. I assume the saw has a 5/8" arbor. If the dado stack is made for a 5/8" arbor, then it will fit on the saw. The next thing to check is if the arbor will fit the width of dado stack that you want to use. If all of that works out, give it a shot. My guess is that the saw will be underpowered for what you want to do. If not, and you have the room, leave it dedicated. I've thought about it, but I just can't spare them room for the luxury of having two table saws.

I have a 12" Craftsman/Parks Planer for sale. 1 hp motor wired for 220v. It is in good working order other than the blades needing to be sharpened. It is a solid machine as they don't make them like this anymore. I have had it for about seven years and am only getting rid of it because it rarely gets used. I currently have a smaller planer that really isn't an upgrade, but it is more convenient for me to use. My shop is on the second floor of my two-story garage, but the Craftsman/Parks is on the first floor with the concrete floor. Needless to say, milling lumber was a bit of a hassle. If I hadn't been given the smaller planer, I would still be using it to mill all of my lumber. If I were able to move my entire shop to the lower level, I would be keeping it as it has been a great machine. Asking $400

If it were me, I would pass. When you are patient, a great deal will come along that does not require fixing of potential problems. My dad picked up an older model ridgid planer for $150 hardly used and it works great. He also found me a dewalt 733 for around $100 used that works awesome. Most of my tools were purchased used and at great prices. $90 is a good price, but I personally would not spend even that if I had to fix it.

Welcome. This is a great place to get assistance. Since you are just starting out, I would keep the workbench simple. You could even use the sawhorses and some sort of top for now. I have recently been catching up on my episodes of WoodTalk. They did an episode on overrated shop items, and the workbench was one of them. You just need something sturdy enough to work on.

I like the fact that you are willing to work with what you have. I don't think there is a "proper" way of doing anything in woodworking. I think the better thing to consider is whether you are doing things in a safe way that you are comfortable with. For example, there are several different ways to cut a tenon. How you do it depends on the tools you have. If there are multiple ways with the tools you have, you then pick what works best for you.

I know where you are coming from. Woodworking is simply a hobby for me as I too have a house, job, and family. When I am stressed out, woodworking is my relief. The size of the projects I take on will dictate how many projects I get done in a year, but no matter what I find it very relaxing. I can understand if you don't want to invest in all of the tools, especially if you don't know you are going to like (or be good at) woodworking. I see and hear of people, all too often, going out and investing a bunch of money in tools and then finding out they don't enjoy woodworking. They make for a good auction or estate sale. I would not want to square up a rough board with a router unless I absolutely had too in order to maintain a wide board. It seems like a lot of work, and trying to get the two edges parallel using a router table seems dangerous. I think some safer ways have been described for you in this thread. If I were starting out like you, I would buy milled boards from the big box stores and look for simple ways to break them down as needed for your projects. You can do a lot with a circular saw, router, and a few other inexpensive handheld tools if you make a few handy jigs. Much more than bird houses and cutting boards. Milling the boards is the problem. Without a jointer, planer, and table saw it is a lot of work. Since it sounds like you are not sure if this is something you will continue doing long term, in my opinion, buying milled boards is the way to go. Milled boards can be expensive, but since you are only talking about one or two projects a year, it would be worth it just to see if it is something you will continue. When you find that you really enjoy woodworking, you can start to expand on the tools that you own. You certainly don't have to get everything all at once, and you don't have to buy new (or expensive) tools. I started small with a circular saw, a miter saw (borrowed), and a cordless drill. Seven years later I have a complete shop with all of the tools I need to take rough lumber to a finished project. I did not buy things all at once though, and I certainly did not buy any of the large tools new. My dad and I looked at auctions, yard sales, and on craigslist. My first big tool purchase was a craftsman contractor saw that I purchased at an auction for $85. It had its quirks, as many on this forum probably know, but it got the job done. When I upgraded to a better saw, I actually sold it for more than what I paid for it. I don't think I would be out any money if I were to sell all of my tools today. I couldn't say that if I had bought them new, and I would never have been able to afford new tools any way. Why would I pay the money when the ones I have work great. Besides, I can always upgrade if I want to save up the money to do so. You can certainly do more than birdhouses and cutting boards. I am sure everyone on this forum would be happy to help you figure out ways to get by with the tools you have to work with.

That did the trick. I checked the cutter head alignment first. It was off by about 1/32", not what I thought would be enough to cause as big of a problem as I was having. I can adjust that better with the table that I have built for it. I checked the blades, and one of the blades wasn't seated properly. Not sure how the one side was set so bad, but I adjusted using the knife setting jigs that came with it. I ran a board through and problem solved. I do need to either sharpen or replace the blades, but no more problems like what I was having. I knew if I posted it here that I would get some answers. Thanks for the help.

My dad picked me up a used dw733 for my birthday. It runs nice, but I think there is something wrong with the outfeed roller. When I run a board through the middle of the blades, the board tends to spin away from the height adjustment side and the board does not get pulled out past the blades. When I run a board on the side opposite the height adjustment, the board doesn't spin, but it is not pulled out past the blades. If I run a board through on the side nearest the height adjustment, the board runs just fine. It passes all the way past the blades and does not shift when it comes through. I have cleaned the outfeed roller so I know that is not the problem. Has anyone ever experienced this problem?

I am just finishing up a chest on chest style dresser. The drawers are designed to ride on the frames inside the chest. The plans I used called for nylon tape to be used on those frames so that the drawers slide easier. I am just wondering if the nylon tape is necessary for the drawers to slide easily or does anyone have other ideas for this. I am worried about the tape eventually peeling up over time. Is this something I need to worry about?

I just watched the Woodworking for Mere Mortals video where he built the shop notes router lift. I will be building my own router table and shop-made lift soon. I was originally going to build the router lift featured by American Woodworker but now I am not sure which would be better. I kind of like the fact that the American Woodworker lift is not attached to the router table top or insert plate. I was just wondering what some of everyone's thoughts are on the matter. I was also wondering if anyone had issue 121 of Shopnotes magazine, and if you would be able to scan in the router lift plans. I have tried to find them online, but have thus far been unsuccessful.

I would not sell the table saw. It will be the workhorse of your shop once you really get into woodworking. Don't get me wrong, I love my bandsaw, but I did without it for quite some time. I do not cut full sheets of plywood on my table saw. I break them down into rough pieces using a circular saw and a straight edge guide first and then move it to the table saw. I have learned to be patient when I am looking for tools. I always keep my eye out and sooner or later a good deal comes along and is meant to be.

The latest issue of Woodsmith magazine talks about making custom drawer liners. I think you have to go to the website to get the online extra on how to make the ring holders.

Watch Harbor Freight adds. They sell packages of the interlocking floor squares. When they are on sale they are not that expensive. My wife and I bought several a while back and I think they were only $5 or $6 per package. I have some of them in my shop and they work pretty well.

We have a few of those jigs in the house. They are a great addition when used properly, so make sure that everyone in the household is shown how to use them properly.

I would agree that 400 is too high. A few months ago I picked up a nearly brand new Jet 14" for $170 at an auction. I have learned that unless you absolutely need to have something right away, it is better to wait and a good deal will eventually arise.