Finishing Basement / Boxing pipes

[JoeTaxpayer]

I am finishing the basement mostly to create a nice sized workshop a keep the dust from getting all over.

The ceiling plan is to use CeilingMax which are plastic strips that screw to ceiling and hold up drop ceiling tiles. I am first putting up 1x2s (furring strips?) which will hold up the plastic channels and also leave that room to run the wiring. Note - This was approved by the inspector. Permit pulled and electrical inspection passed rough in. I have go ahead to drywall, and call him back once outlets are in. Also, this room will be a dance rrom for my 12yr old. That lower pipe is now 7'2" off ground, will lose no more than 2 more inches between final floor and ceiling.

Now - the question - to box this in, instead of 2x4s and drywall, what do you think of my just using 3/4" wood, say poplar? Just build the box and attach to scrap at each joist? I can paint it, and it would look no different than drywall, but would be less effort.

Any thoughts, much appreciated. Can post more pics if needed. FWIW, I calculated 70 sheets of drywall, used 15 so far, would like to be done in next month. Will pay guys to tape/mud. That's beyond my skill.

[Vic]

Joe, at our last, Sylvia wanted accustom soffit to exactly match the cabinet tops.. I did what you're proposing with mdf. I uses 2x2s for backing. I like for this application, because once you ease the corners it paints very well.

[JoeTaxpayer]

Joe, at our last, Sylvia wanted accustom soffit to exactly match the cabinet tops.. I did what you're proposing with mdf. I uses 2x2s for backing. I like for this application, because once you ease the corners it paints very well.

Thanks! I built 2x4 cages around some ductwork and steel beams, wanted to avoid that here.

[BenMinshall]

The ceiling plan is to use CeilingMax which are plastic strips that screw to ceiling and hold up drop ceiling tiles.

Just a note on this system. It looks pretty good initially, but after a year or two the plastic strips do start to sag and the joints open up. I was hopeful at first given how easy it is to install compared to metal track, but it really doesn't hold up like a traditional metal drop ceiling does especially given that the price is about the same. Just food for thought.

[Roger T]

How wide is your soffit going to be? If you are wider than about 16" you have to consider that there will be some sag in what ever you use for a bottom material. What I have done in the past was make like ladders out of 2x2's with 2x4 blocks. These hang from the bottom of the joists, then using 2x4's flat, place them in between the ladders to frame in the bottom. Working with a string line, put bracing inside the soffit to straighten it out. You only lose 1 1/2" of space doing it this way. And you will get no sag. Also, don't forget to put in an access panel at the ends of the runs so you can get to the 2 cleanouts if you ever need to. 16x16 access panels will be enough for a plumber to work thru.

Roger

[JoeTaxpayer]

How wide is your soffit going to be? If you are wider than about 16" you have to consider that there will be some sag in what ever you use for a bottom material. What I have done in the past was make like ladders out of 2x2's with 2x4 blocks. These hang from the bottom of the joists, then using 2x4's flat, place them in between the ladders to frame in the bottom. Working with a string line, put bracing inside the soffit to straighten it out. You only lose 1 1/2" of space doing it this way. And you will get no sag. Also, don't forget to put in an access panel at the ends of the runs so you can get to the 2 cleanouts if you ever need to. 16x16 access panels will be enough for a plumber to work thru.

Roger

Not wide, just to box in the pipes.

On the other hand, in a different area, there's a beam, plus duct which abut each other. The span there is 19 inches. I take it a 19 inch span of drywall will buckle? So I can't just have it screwed to wood on either side, I need to have cross pieces? I wanted to avoid the further 3/4" drop. I can post a pic of that if it would help. I can also add construction adhesive to the beam to help take some weight off. The drywall is going well, it's all the stopping and boxing making me nuts.