ShaunHarper Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I just purchased this scraper plane. I own card scrapers and a refurbished Stanley #80. It comes with a very thick blade and instructions that recommend a 45 degree bevel and no hook. Everything I read including a recent Popular Woodworking magazine article recommend a hook, albeit with older Stanley models and thinner blades. So far all I have gotten is dust and tiny shavings. Nothing close to what I get with my other scrapers. I honed the bevel to a fine polish but now I am leaning toward adding a hook. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I have the Veritas scraper plane. Thick blade, 45º bevel, and it came with no hook. I tried it that way just to see and I got dust. Hit it with a burnisher to put on a hook and lovely shavings. So... I put a hook on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoboMonk Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 A well turned hook is the way to go. When I teach wood finishing I give the students three different sharpened types of card scrapers; blunt, chisel and hooked. They always marvel at the efficiency of the hook. I've been a hooker for four decades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory Paolini Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I just purchased this scraper plane. I own card scrapers and a refurbished Stanley #80. It comes with a very thick blade and instructions that recommend a 45 degree bevel and no hook. Everything I read including a recent Popular Woodworking magazine article recommend a hook, albeit with older Stanley models and thinner blades. So far all I have gotten is dust and tiny shavings. Nothing close to what I get with my other scrapers. I honed the bevel to a fine polish but now I am leaning toward adding a hook. Any suggestions? Shaun, I think the reason they don't recomend a hook, is because the blade on the LN scraper place is so thick, that you can's bend it like you would a normal card scraper, or a cabinet scraper (#80), thus you can't really pinpoint the cutting action as you would a normal scraper. Try sharpening it exactly the same way you would sharpen a hand plane blade - It should be razor sharp... I mean, you could actually shave with it. Then once it's back in the plane, raise the angle up. Rather than having the 10-15 degree forward slant, try starting out at 3 to 4 degrees slanted, and see what happens. I also have the Lee Valley Scraper plane, and on that one I do use a hook, but the blade, while still very thick, is only about half the thickness of the LN plane, and I can still bend/bow it a bit. Hope this helps, -gp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 I also have the Lee Valley Scraper plane, and on that one I do use a hook, but the blade, while still very thick, is only about half the thickness of the LN plane, and I can still bend/bow it a bit. Oh, wow, didn't realize it was that much thicker. I do hone mine to maintain the bevel then hit it with the Veritas variable burnisher (barely fits), but I do get a hook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory Paolini Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Oh, wow, didn't realize it was that much thicker. I do hone mine to maintain the bevel then hit it with the Veritas variable burnisher (barely fits), but I do get a hook. Oh, I bet the LN is a good 1/8 inch thick. Really is more of a super high angle plane than a scraper. And, for what it's worth, the LN 112 blade will slip right into the Lee Valley large scraper plane - Perfect fit. I use the heck out of it on Quarter sawn white oak Best, Gregory Paolini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Pants Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Oh, wow, didn't realize it was that much thicker. I do hone mine to maintain the bevel then hit it with the Veritas variable burnisher (barely fits), but I do get a hook. Yeah the Lee Valley one by default comes with a scraper that can take the bend in it. They also sell a thicker add on blade that probably works in the same manner as the Lie-Nielsen (in that it doesn't take the bend). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunHarper Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Thanx everyone. I'm a weekend woodworker so I can't wait until Saturday to give it another go. I'm going to try adjusting the angle more before I put a hook on the blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Thanx everyone. I'm a weekend woodworker so I can't wait until Saturday to give it another go. I'm going to try adjusting the angle more before I put a hook on the blade. Try adjusting your angle for best results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunHarper Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 It was the angle. I got the protractor out and I had the blade pushed forward at least 25-27 degrees. I moved it back to 15 degrees, readjusted the blade height down and what do you know perfect savings. TLN is right. No hook needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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