TBaiga Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Question for the Festool router users, which accessories are a must have right out of the box, umm, err, i mean systainer, lol! Looks like there is a goody box for the 2200 but not the 1400...so if you were to build your own, what would you add? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Tom. What are you going to build? I use the LR32 system 583 291 because I embraced the system 32 way of building cabinets. If you embrace this, then all hardware fits easy because follows this. If you are not going to build cabinets, then forget this. Also if you get this system get the long guide rail because if you have to drill for system holes on a book case the short guide rail will be a nightmare. (I have both) EDGE GUIDE 492 636 I do a lot of rabbet doors and prefer to free hand this instead of using a router table. MFS 700 492 611 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBaiga Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 All the initial projects are built-ins, so a lot of cabinet work, rabbets, dado's and edge trimming. System 32 has some uses, i just question if you really need that many holes. I rarely move shelf positions, but saying that, my wife redecorates alot...aka "the chotski shuffle". Food for thought, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Amount of holes. I don't like having holes all the way down the sides. Typically I have just a couple up and down (total of 5 per shelf. Even 3 holes is sometimes enough. The feature of system 32 is for the placement of the hinges on the doors and drawer slides. So ... when you embrace the system 32, the LR32 from Festool requires one setup and time is money. Frankly it does not take that much of a change using the system 32 all is required is to make the height of your box to fit that multiplier, then everything else is easier. The other thing that will help is using the right setback for your holes on your adjustable shelves and drawer holes. Most drawer slides (if not all) are built for system 32. For sure all hinges. If you are not going this direction then the LR32 would be a waste of money. All the initial projects are built-ins, so a lot of cabinet work, rabbets, dado's and edge trimming. System 32 has some uses, i just question if you really need that many holes. I rarely move shelf positions, but saying that, my wife redecorates alot...aka "the chotski shuffle". Food for thought, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBaiga Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 hey thanks. originally i was thinking that system 32 was essentially all the shelf pin holes and just for the euro-style cabinets. i did not realize that one could employ system 32 with face frames in a hybrid cabinet sense. i need to think/read more about this and wrap my brain around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 There is a book you can get on Amazon. If you are not going to embrace system 32 don't waste your money on the accessoy. You can always buy that later. I build Euro cabinets when I do with a thick banding that looks like face frame but the edgebanding (3/4" solid) is flush with the side panel so the drawer slides can clear the box. Face frame probably makes sense when you don't have a back and you need the strength. I use at least 1/2" backs on my cabinets so there they stay square. hey thanks. originally i was thinking that system 32 was essentially all the shelf pin holes and just for the euro-style cabinets. i did not realize that one could employ system 32 with face frames in a hybrid cabinet sense. i need to think/read more about this and wrap my brain around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 I have two of the edge guides; they can both fit on the rails as they are so long. Put one on each side and you have a pretty nice setup for mortises. The plexiglass/lexan template for mortising also looks very useful. The guide stops that let you run the router on a guide rail is enormously useful for sliding dovetails in a carcass especially when used on the MFT. If you don't have an antistatic D36 hose, you'll want one. The 1400 (and the saws) generate more chips/dust than the D27 really keeps up with. It is night and day. The D36 is also very useful for any of the cleaning kits. If the router bit Systainer looks tempting, be aware that the height of the Sys1 it comes in is very short for most bits so you end up placing them where recesses exist in the lid. You can order the insert separately and a Sys2; works better. Good luck and enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBaiga Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 thanks Paul. the dust collection angle was something that struck me looking at specs for the ct36 and i noticed the system came with the 27 hose, but the universal cleaning systainer had the 36 hose and attachments. looking at the catalog i don't see a spec for which hose to use for which tool. although i imagine small diameter for fine dust and larger for things that produce chips. So based on the replies: EDGE GUIDE (492 636), 1 for sure. MFS 700 (492 611), a nice to have, especially with the MFT/3 What about the edging plate (486 058), guide stop (462 601), support (438 608), table widener (493 233) assuming rail guided work or edge routing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Best way to get a D36 hose is to buy one of the cleaning kits. I believe I bought the workshop cleaning kit; the floor sweep is very nice to have in the shop and the other attachments are great for vacuuming off sanding dust or whatever. The D27 is considered the "tool hose" since it is for most of the tools (sanders, Domino, OF1010, jigsaw, etc.) The big chip makers like the TS-55/75, OF-1400, OF-2200 can have the D27 inserted into their dust port or have a D36 attached over the connector. When I rip ply on the MFT with the TS-75, I use the D27 since it is on the boomarm. If I rip something more, I use the D36. I mentioned the guide stop in my last reply. Definitely get it. On the MFT, it is particularly good for doing sliding dovetails as you'd lay the carcass pieces on the MFT and use the guiderail to make the socket of the dovetail (stopped or not). Using the flag stop on the table, you can then put the other carcass piece on the table and get a matching socket for the other side. But then I've used it to do flooring inlays, too with a rail. Another fantastic reason to own the guide stop: enormous offset base. Put the guide rods on and place a stop at the end and it sits flush with the base of the router. You now have a handle up to 12" away from the router to stabilize it. I do this all the time when routing an edge profile as it gives exceptional control. Not sure about "MFS700 nice with MFT/3" as I don't think the MFS and MFT are that tied. You can use the MFS anywhere. Not to dissuade you from them, but just pointing out. The table widener is okay. Crazy expensive for what it is and a nuisance to swap out. I bought it early on and can't return it now so since I have it, I do use it when doing a lot of guided routing where the foot isn't enough. I'd hold on that. In mentioning the guide stops for a super-sized offset handle, I swear I blogged about it. If you visit my blog, there's a category for the OF-1400 and has tidbits about it. It's a pretty green and chestnut blog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuilderBill Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 ...... It's a pretty green and chestnut blog. Don't beat yourself up buddy, it's a great blog! Lot of great work there, you should be proud. OF1400 accessories? The edge guide is a must, what good is any router without an edge guide and the vac connection works well. Bought the guide stops with my 1400 but have yet to use them, it seems like you're lost in the wilderness when it comes to locating the cut. Maybe with enough fiddling you could set them to the guide rail like the TS saws but I just haven't had the inspiration. Something to do the next snow day maybe.... I do have the table widener and agree with P-M about the cost and convenience, the magnets for the inserts are nice but for "do-overs" I'd just make a big polycarb base and save the money. Absolutely love the LR32 setup, but it's ever so much easier to use with the OF 1010. You don't have to drill holes all up the sides of the cabinet, just mark the ones you want with a pencil and drill those. Check out Brice Burrell's video on using it with the parallel guides, it works great! That's about all I can report on... Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dax Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 Here's a question for you experienced OF 1400 users. I'm trying to attach a large plexi base from Eagle America to make their trays. Do I need longer screws to attach the plexi to the base? What is the size? The manual gives me no help. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.