Older Jet saw

[Refnump]

I'm retired, and a hobbyist woodworker. I have an older Jet 10" contractor table saw which I bought used, and which does not have, nor has it ever had if my research has been accurate, a splitter or riving knife. I know there are small splitter tabs which can be, with some effort, imbedded into insert plates, but I would prefer something more robust, like a riving knife. I do not have access to another saw to see how one might be manufactured, nor do I have the wherewithal to replace the saw.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Tim B.

[wtnhighlander]

Simple solution is to make a splitter into your next insert, something like this:

A real riving knife elevates and tilts with the blade. There used to be company that made aftermarket riving knives, but the selection of saws they fit was rather limited. Sorry, I don't recall the name.

A properly aligned blade and fence will minimize the danger of wood binding and kicking back. I suggest using a solid, 'shoe' style push tool, with a sacrificial bottom, to hold the work to the table at all times. I use a 16" piece of 2x6 with a small strip attached to one end as a 'heel' to catch the workpiece. With the blade just clearing the work, I can run the push tool right over it, and easily make a new one when it wears out.

Don't make the mistake of running your push tool along the fence, especially on wider cuts. That actuall puts twisting force on the work that INCREASES the chance of kick-back. Push closer to the blade. And NEVER with your bare hands.

[Refnump]

Thanks, Highlander. This is a solution I had considered, but had not yet undertaken. As the work converting the garage into a shop - wiring, insulation, heating, lighting, etc. - is nearing completion, it was an issue I knew would be needed to deal with very early on. Alas, day/s of reckoning is/are imminent.

 

I'm confident blade and fence are aligned well, but if you have quick-and-dirty tutorial for alignment, I'd be greatly appreciative.

[wtnhighlander]

There are several on Youtube. My process is to use an inexpensive dial indicator to ensure the blade doesn't wobble (bent blade, bent arbor, worn bearings). The using the same indicator, I check from the left miter slot to the blade, front and back, blade at full height. Adjust to dead square.

Then confirm from the right miter slot. Follow by checking from a miter slot to the fence at various places, then move and re-lock the fence and check again. Some like to have the fence angle away from the blade by a few thou at the exit side, but I prefer dead straight. Having the fence angle toward the blade at the far end is what pinches the wood and lets the rising back side of the blade fling it at you.