Mobile Table Saw Stand


rasmussenjackr

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I am doing some upgrade work on my 1970s Craftsman table saw. The gentlemen that I purchased it from had added a dust collector kit that attaches to the motor and has hoses going to the blade guard as well as into the base of the saw. Runs great, cast iron top with cast iron extensions on both sides, little rust that I cleaned up, and at $100, a complete steal.

I am waiting for a Delta T2 replacement fence to arrive by UPS - the factory fence is absolute junk. I have read the work it takes to get this fence installed, but have read great reviews.

Now to my issue, I am removing the saw from the factory steel 4-legged base. One of the legs is bent, and since my shop is in my garage, I need to be able to move the saw. Sliding a cast iron saw around on a base with a bent leg is not easy or good for the saw. So, I am boing to build a wooden base with locking casters to set the saw on with an extension piece fitting between the T2 rip fence guide rails. I have seen many different styles on line, but they all have one thing in common - drawers on the front. I have concerns with the possibility of the drawers opening while the saw is in operation, and I do not like the idea of anything sticking out in front of me while using a saw that can easily send projectiles out if not paying attention.

Does anyone have any experience with this? Has anyone built one? I am thinking of constructing two wall cabinets to put on each side of a base with a top spanning the two. This way, the cabinets doors open on the sides, rather than the front, eliminating risks of having a tripping hazard in front of the saw.

Anyone have any feedback or ideas?

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This may not be exactly what you have in mind but here is a base that I am building now. There are no drawers on the front and I am currently thinking about how I want to make the base cabinet for a router table on the end. I have the front and rear rails on now and getting the dimensions to start on the router table tomorrow. I was going to put a drawer under each saw, but that is where I put the connection port for dust collection and the drawers would get in the way.

I don't think that I would be too concerned about the drawers coming open while using the saw and if they did, you could add some magnets to the drawers to help keep them closed, or even some kind of latch/catch.

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I put a T2 on an older craftsman table saw, and really made a world of difference on the saw! My only advice is as you are drilling into the cast iron, as you fee the drill bit start to break through the other side, SLOW WAY DOWN, otherwise the bit will catch and the drill will fly out of your hands. Also, have machine oil handy as you will need that to keep the bit from overheating.

I actually made my own extension piece to go between the fence rails as the stamped steel wings were to flimsy with the new rails on.

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I put a T2 on an older craftsman table saw, and really made a world of difference on the saw! My only advice is as you are drilling into the cast iron, as you fee the drill bit start to break through the other side, SLOW WAY DOWN, otherwise the bit will catch and the drill will fly out of your hands. Also, have machine oil handy as you will need that to keep the bit from overheating.

I actually made my own extension piece to go between the fence rails as the stamped steel wings were to flimsy with the new rails on.

MikeM

As I read about this upgrade in other places, I see the holes do not align.

I see differing opinions about how to get aligning holes. Did you drill new holes in the rails or in the cast iron table itself?

The new T2 arrived yesterday - was excited when the UPS lady delivered it to my desk! No am itchin' to get it on the saw and test it out.

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