Juicegoose Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 Guys i'm spraying some GF milk paint and although it seems to be spraying beautifully I've noticed the every so often I'm getting these little bubbles in the paint. Can anyone shed any light as to why this might be happening and possible fixes? My immediate thought is to use some flowtrol to allow the paint more open time to level out and let the bubbles pop. Any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 Are the bubbles just random and only on the first coat? Have you thinned the milk paint and if so, with what? What kind of wood are you coating? What is your surface prep? Do the bubbles pop or stay proud? -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juicegoose Posted July 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 The bubbles are indeed random, they have occured on multiple coats and I've thinned the paint with a little water. I am coating some red oak plywood and the surface prep was some sanding and two light coats of sealcoat.some pop and some haven't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceHoleInOne Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 Juice: Everything sounds good, how is the temperature in your neck of the woods? Hot temps and dry conditions will cause the finish to skim over rapidly then drying too fast before bubbles can get out. I would probably recommend a General Finishes product called Extender in lieu of Flowtrol, (it's better to stick with one finish manufactures products for compatibility) Also, I believe General Finishes even has on the pro-side another product called "Flow Out" for orange peel, craters, fish-eyes. Can you wait till things cool off then spray? Another thing, if your new to spraying, (we all have been there) it could just be the way your gun is set up. Maybe to small a needle and too much pressure, not sure, could be anything? I think General Finishes recommends about 1.8 needle and nozzle for Milk Paint. Here’s a good test. If you can lay down a nice wet coat with a brush and you don’t have bubbles, then it’s the way your probably spraying or the gun set up. If I may suggest, next time, instead of sealcoat for red oak, try a good primer. General Finishes has this on the pro-side, a white undercoat (primer) that can be sprayed and has tannin blockers to help that with oak. Hope this helps -Ace- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juicegoose Posted July 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 Ace I'll give those tips a try. Currently down in Houston it's about 90-95 degrees in the shop when I spray. I've thinned my paint to a ratio of roughly 1 qt of paint to 1-1.5 of the viscosity cups wth water. I get a complete emptying of the visco cup at around 30-50 seconds. I'll also look into the extender by general finishes On a side note I've been trying to prefinish some of the face frame. I went through the same process as with the panels utilizing a coat of sealcoat(sprayed) and then two coats of milk paint. The realwood face grain of the redoak just won't go away. The parts of the face grain that have an end grain texture, little lines, keep either sucking up the paint of the paint just isn't filling the voids. Last night I took a sponge brush to the whole thing with some sealcoat to get a good thick coat and try to seal the grain. Tonight I'll sand it down and see what we got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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