dwacker Posted January 25, 2012 Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 all 4'' hose and pipe? any 3'' couplings at the end of your runs or anything special? Nope nothing special no 3" at all. The blast gates came from pennstate but woodcraft sells the same ones. Its alot easier than you think, may take a few trips to home depot but not bad. I got it all in two runs even with my bad memory. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linkmx674 Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 metal blast gates? i have rocklers black plastic ones?? your hose is 4'' as well? did you use thin wall pvc or the tick stuff? im just curious with my hose having a 4'' id and the pvc od is 4 1/2''? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 metal blast gates? i have rocklers black plastic ones?? your hose is 4'' as well? did you use thin wall pvc or the tick stuff? im just curious with my hose having a 4'' id and the pvc od is 4 1/2''? Use all thin wall. Yes metal blast gates with pvc, the plastic ones are a pain. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joraft Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I paid pacific air systems to come to my shop and do it for me. It worked so well that the system imploded and crushed all the pipe that most people are using for their dust collection systems. Basicly I wasted a bunch of money and said the heck with it and just replaced it with pvc. I think buying ducting and fittings for a dust collection system at Home Depot is always going to be a waste of money. Buy materials designed for the purpose and get the most out of your dust collector, no matter what size it is. And if you're going to pay someone to design your system, I think it's best to use a dust collection expert, not a heating and conditioning company. http://www.nordfab.com/view/assets/literature/How_to_design_a_duct_system.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 I think buying ducting and fittings for a dust collection system at Home Depot is always going to be a waste of money. Buy materials designed for the purpose and get the most out of your dust collector, no matter what size it is. And if you're going to pay someone to design your system, I think it's best to use a dust collection expert, not a heating and conditioning company. http://www.nordfab.c...duct_system.pdf Pacific air systems obviously lives off heating and air conditioning but they install every major dust collection system in the area including Buffelen Woodworking a 20 acre woodworking company. My guess is if they can handle manufacturing facilities this size they can handle a little shop. I bought my origonal dust collection piping from Pennstate although it wasnt the most expensive it was advertised as dust collection parts not HVAC. The problem was that the system was so well planned that it crushed the cheaper tubing. Im sure that if I would have just laid it out myself it would have been just fine but less efficient. Lesson learned if you want the most efficient system dont skimp on the pipe. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joraft Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 My guess is if they can handle manufacturing facilities this size they can handle a little shop. I bought my original dust collection piping from Pennstate although it wasnt the most expensive it was advertised as dust collection parts not HVAC. The problem was that the system was so well planned that it crushed the cheaper tubing. Did they not specify the gauge of the ducting that should be used with their plan? The Penn State "economy" ducting is 26 gauge, and their "premium" is 24 gauge. Nordfab is 22 gauge, which is incredibly strong. If you want the most efficient system dont skimp on the pipe. My point exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Did they not specify the gauge of the ducting that should be used with their plan? The Penn State "economy" ducting is 26 gauge, and their "premium" is 24 gauge. Nordfab is 22 gauge, which is incredibly strong. My point exactly. They did specify the pipe but being a cheap guy I listened to all the false information found on the internet. How many times have we all read that standard HVAC pip at home depot was just fine. Heck people post photos and it seems to be working for them so we use it. Between bad information and being it const me a bunch of time and money. Even the pro shops that do this for profit like do dont have the big bucks to buy Norfab stuff. Maybe when I win the Lotto. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joraft Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 They did specify the pipe but being a cheap guy I listened to all the false information found on the internet. How many times have we all read that standard HVAC pipe at home depot was just fine. Heck people post photos and it seems to be working for them so we use it. Between bad information and being it cost me a bunch of time and money. Yes, I've seen that stuff on the Net too. I'm guessing that most who use cheaper materials are judging their success only by the fact that the ducting hasn't collapsed. I doubt that they have any idea how much efficiency they're losing through higher static pressures and system leaks. Even the pro shops that do this for profit like do don't have the big bucks to buy Norfab stuff. Maybe when I win the Lotto. I wonder if the difference in cost is really that big. Especially considering that a good dust collection system lasts a long time, and makes for a healthier work environment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado Brian Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 If you're using PVC make sure you run a grounding wire throughout to avoid static build up and possible explosions (never heard of it happening but better safe than sorry) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linkmx674 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 how do you run a grounding wire thru it? where do you connect it to? i am a newbie so i dont know much about this? do you run it thru the pipe and connect to each machine??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 I would run the bare grounding wire outside the pipe, and every four feet or so wrap the wire around a screw which is screwed into the pipe. The tip of the screw should poke through into the interior of the pipe. I think that would cause less drag than having the wire inside, and also be easier to run. The wire should be connected to the motor on your dust collector, or to the same electrical ground as the motor. It shouldn't be connected to every tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 how do you run a grounding wire thru it? where do you connect it to? i am a newbie so i dont know much about this? do you run it thru the pipe and connect to each machine??? The wire goes on the inside of the pipe thats why there is no insulation. It easy to feed if you install it while your putting it together. One end should connect to a ground. This can be any ground you can easily get to. I terminated all my grounds at the blast gates so still get a jolt at all the short flex hoses that connect to the machines. To prevent this you run the wire all the way to the end. The wire is nothing more than stranded electrical grounding wire. You can get it at home depot or even rockler in a kit. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brtech Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 Use 4". Use 45s and a short straight section and Wyes. Minimize flex hose. Put the blast gates as close to the Wye as possible, but easy to get to. I have found that with a little bit of vendor selection, I was able to get blast gates that fit 4" PVC with no problems. Use reducers only if your tool can't be fitted with a 4" inlet. Put the reducer as close to the inlet as possible. On mine, the main line runs across the ceiling. Wyes branch off for tool runs with 45s to get it down to the tool and more 45s to get to its inlet. Blast gate is about half way down from the Wye if that is convient and close to the tool when it's not. For example, my table saw has a bottom mounted inlet in a contractor saw. So I have to come straight down, two 45s and straight section to get it to the side of the TS. Then two 45s to get it vertical, blast gate in the middle, up to the ceiling, then another pair of 45s to match up to the Wye. That's 3 x 90s, but since the inlet faces down, that's what I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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