Cutting Curves in Traditional Japanese Woodwork

[Tony Wilkins]

Thinking about making a pair of the short traditional saw beams that Toshio Odate mentions in his book. I have a question about the design. I noticed that he cut a couple of curves in the bases on the ones he shows. How would this have been done in traditional Japanese woodworking?

[fransikaner]

Tony, others may have better suggestions, but on smaller curves I use a saw to remove wood down to my curve and then work the wood with rasps and files.

[Tony Wilkins]

That's what I was thinking. When I went back to Odate there is a saw that would be useful too - an azebiki.

[fransikaner]

To save some time, you may want to consider a coping or fret saw to run in closer on your curves and reduce rasp time. Cuts on inside curves can drive you crazy with straight saws.

[Tony Wilkins]

Thanks fransikaner. Follow on question. If the parts for this thing range around 8/4 lumber, will my little 210mm Ryoba be beefy enough to cut it? If not, do I need a 270/300mm ryoba or something different?

[fransikaner]

Wow, you are really talking old school, Tony. I usually do not get beyond 3/4 with traditional hand tools - I am not set up for the "big" wood.

I can't speak to the utility of a 270/300 ryoba beyond "the longer the blade, the deeper the draw".

[Tony Wilkins]

The only thing I have that I'm planning on going to the big wood in so far is this project. I have 2/4 for a box I want to make. Keep thinking these little saw benches would be useful especially since I can't see the top of my workbench for the junk

[konkers]

Thanks fransikaner. Follow on question. If the parts for this thing range around 8/4 lumber, will my little 210mm Ryoba be beefy enough to cut it? If not, do I need a 270/300mm ryoba or something different?

I have the same 210mm Ryoba as you and have no issues cuttng joinery in 8/4 stock. If you're planning on ripping lumber with that saw, you might want something more agressive. I tend to rip most of my lumber with either a western style rip saw or with a table saw or band saw.

[HoboMonk]

Here's how I cut the Irisumi corners using Japanese saws, chisels and rasps (esp. Iwasaki carving files).

Step 1 - Layout the pattern.

Step 2 - Make a diagonal cut to remove the most wood.

Step 3 - Make the notch cuts to define the lobes.

Step 4 - Round-over the lobes with chisels and/or rasps.

[Tony Wilkins]

Thanks all. Don't know how I missed some of these responses but just noticed them.

HoboMonk: very useful and definitely something I can do.

Now I just need to decide if I want to do the traditional Japanese saw horses, traditional english saw benches, or something different. With a severely bad back bending over is a challenge.