Benefits of Waterlox

[absolutcitroni]

I'm wondering what the advantages of using Waterlox on projects are vs. using some other lesser/cheaper brand of wiping varnish. I often hear that many woodwokers default to this finish in a variety of situations, but I'm wondering exactly how it compares to other brands and what characteristics make it so great. I've used it, as well as Formby's and Minwax as well as some oil/varnish mixes to throw into the comparison and to be honest i can't tell that much of a difference, much less a difference that would justify paying 3-4 times as much. I remember coming across an older article in Fine Woodworking that compared like 30 finishes and their conclusion was that the best was also the cheapest (Minwax). Thoughts?

[Fricasseekid]

Tuned in...

[HoboMonk]

TVTA (Too Vague To Answer)

Kinds of wood?

Types of projects?

Desired finishes?

Customer/admirers expectations?

Degree of skill?

Your experience?

[absolutcitroni]

Yeah, I realize it's kind of a vague and general question. The specifics in this case do not matter, I'm just asking what people's thoughs are on using Waterlox...

[Fricasseekid]

If I may opine here:

In the "ask woodman" videos on YouTube he claims that he believes Waterlox to BR the best all around finish for almost any project. That is a very general statement. What reasons might there be to make such claims?

Or is he paid by Waterlox?

[Fricasseekid]

But here is a specific:

I have a very well seasoned cedar slab that I want to make into a sofa or hall table. I have already sanded it to 150 and coated it in teak oil, but that was just to bring out the color in the wood so I can look at it while I think about my project design.

I would like a durable finish that displays all the fine figuring in the grain. I also want a finish that looks deep but not wet. Could Waterlox work for me?

[HoboMonk]

I like Waterlox. I've been using it for about 30+ years.

[thewoodwhisperer]

Sometimes it can be hard to put your finger on the exact differences in products. But for instance, I'm a big fan of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal. From my experience, I feel like the finished product appears more like a lacquered surface than one derived from a varnish. I can't say this with absolute certainty but I have always thought one of the key differences between the cheaper brands and the premium brands is the source materials. A varnish made with tung oil is generally considered to be of higher quality than one made with boiled linseed oil. A varnish made with a certain proprietary mix of resins might offer better working, durability, or visual properties. So essentially, better materials in, better materials out. But in the finishing world, it can be very difficult to find out what the REAL story is. So in my opinion, the best thing to do is ignore all the "advice", including mine, and test for yourself. See if you can tell the difference between a $10 can of finish and a $20 can of finish. Keep those boards around for a few years and keep your eye on them. If you can't tell a difference, then to your eyes, there isn't one. No reason to spend extra money unnecessarily.

[absolutcitroni]

Thanks Marc, your answer is pretty much what I was thinking. Surprisingly, I used Arm-R-Seal on a on a Cherry bookcase that I made (I know it's a product you prefer), and I had a horrible experience with it. I was scuff sanding between coats with 400 grit, and ended up with scratches that didn't come out and spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to prevent them and what might have caused it. I haven't seen that problem with other finishes, but then again, I haven't done much on the same large scale where such scratches would be most obvious. I suppose like you suggested I will have to do some more experimentation before I come to some type of conclusion. I've only been doing this woodworking stuff about 9 months and have been consumed with absorbing the large amount of information out there. Some answers are just really hard to find, so these forums are great for getting people's opinions. THANKS.

[thewoodwhisperer]

Kind of a tangent, but the thing to keep in mind with Arm-R-Seal is that it is already pretty thin. So if you are applying thin coats, it is a little tricky to cover up scratches from previous sandings. So what I found that helps alleviate that is simply layering on a thicker coat. Instead of spreading the finish super thin, use a rag much like you would use a brush and lay down a more substantial coat.