Cmac2008 Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 AHHHHHHHH!!!!!!.... Ok end of last winter I made about 10 FF and stained them but never finished... I then set them on carpet in my shed which drew moisture and now the bottom rail and ends of stiles for about 3 inches are dark and discolored... Should I sand down the whole FF and re stain? Any other options? I will try to post pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmac2008 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Don't look so bad in picture but IT IS!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Bleach , primer and paint come to mind. Maybe you could stain them dark to hide the discoloration? Mask off the discolored areas and put the first coat on the lighter areas then wipe a second coat on everything to even up the appearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmac2008 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 They are red oak and they go to some other cabinets so I really need them to match... I think I'm going to have to sand and redo butt will sanding get deep enough to remove the discoloration?!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Tarbell Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 How about starting with a non-visible side of one of the cabinets to see how deep it runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Beauty is skin deep but mold stains usually go pretty deep ! Give sanding a shot but oak isn't expensive so if you are trying to match the existing cabinets remember color and grain matter to produce a convincing result ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmac2008 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Ok so far not too bad.... There is still some discoloration in the porous grains but I think most of that is the stain still in the deep open grains.... I figure about a day worth of sanding and a day worth of staining.... Should be a lot quicker then rebuilding these.... I just hit it a couple times with 120 palm sander and it's looking promising Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 If you follow the palm sander with a hand block going only along the grain to take out swirl marks the stain will look much better. Good luck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmac2008 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks guys a lot... I have one more ? For ya.... This is actually good that I am restaining these cuz when I did the first time I got what looked like little drops threw out my FF.... I've had this problem with red oak be for.... I finish sanding with 220 wipe everything down... Apply stain... Set for roughly 15 minutes and wipe down... Then I came back about another 15 minutes and wiped it down again (trying to learn from last time I stained red oak) everything looks great.... Come back next morning and it looks as some of the stain pushed itself back to the top Of the wood.... Is this a moisture problem in the wood? Still not getting all stain wiped off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 Don't let the stain soak in so long on red oak. 2 to 5 minutes is plenty. The coarse open grain takes stain pretty deep. After you wipe off the surface capillary action brings that stain back up to the surface. Gentle wiping frequently will pick up those little spots. I use a pro formula stain and spray it on, then wipe off the excess in a minute or so. To keep from staining the open grain too dark and too deep I use a pre- stain, which is basically the same as stain but without any pigments. It soaks into the thirsty grain, dries and the result is a much more even result. This might not be needed when you are trying to match something existing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim0625 Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Don't let the stain soak in so long on red oak. 2 to 5 minutes is plenty. The coarse open grain takes stain pretty deep. After you wipe off the surface capillary action brings that stain back up to the surface. Gentle wiping frequently will pick up those little spots. I use a pro formula stain and spray it on, then wipe off the excess in a minute or so. To keep from staining the open grain too dark and too deep I use a pre- stain, which is basically the same as stain but without any pigments. It soaks into the thirsty grain, dries and the result is a much more even result. This might not be needed when you are trying to match something existing. Steve, take me a little farther down the road. Please explain "prestain" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 It is sort of like blotch control. If you have ever seen the open areas on oak end up very dark when stained it prevents that. The clear pre stain soaks in and prevents the thirstiest sections of grain from absorbing too much stain. The result is a much more even stain color overall. I use M L Campbell's WoodSong stains , the clear base that can be tinted also works as a pre stain. Minwax makes a pre stain, or you can use natural stain ( which has no pigment ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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