Derwood

Spar

9 posts in this topic

Hi guys,

Just finished a trestle picnic table along with trestle benches. I didn't stain the bottom of the table, benches I did though, not sure of my reasoning there. But anyhow, when I go to spar with the 20/80 min/spar, do I do the bottom also? Does this need protection as much?

Thanks,

D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, you need to put a seal coat on both sides unless you like a twisted, curly look.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

Just finished a trestle picnic table along with trestle benches. I didn't stain the bottom of the table, benches I did though, not sure of my reasoning there. But anyhow, when I go to spar with the 20/80 min/spar, do I do the bottom also? Does this need protection as much?

Thanks,

D

For outdoor uses, finish all sides.

Are you using spar urethane or spar varnish?

Blessings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys, thanks for your input, it was spar urethane btw, and I did the whole bit. Looks great considering it's pine lol, but in the long run I figure this saves me money.

I have to take the pine comment back. It was enjoyable to work with this time considering I prepped it all right and took no shortcuts. The end result, time consuming as it was, indeed was a pleasure to both work on and look at. Now I have to figure out how to put it back in my yard. Did this in a small workshop lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the end result. Bit rushed, taking up too much space, which is why I asked the seemingly dumb question I did. I ended up finishing the trestles and all else, at the expense of my sciatica lol. Man,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Note: The term "spar" refers to wooden boat parts, such as the mast and topside. It is NOT a particular type of finish.

So called, "Spar Urethane" is a consumer-grade polyurethane containing exterior varnish. It is not very durable.

Real Spar Varnish is usually a tung oil/phenolic resin varnish with UV inhibitors that is specially formulated for exterior wood applications. It is typically a "Long Oil" formulation that remains more flexible when it dries. It if far more durable than the cheaper consumer-grade knock-offs.

A good traditional Spar Varnish is available as a house brand at Ace Hardware stores. It is a real tung oil/phenolic resin varnish that performs well and is less costly than the high priced imports, such as Epifanes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah. I know that. USN Constitution was in my past. ;) Made my own mix with spar, real tung oil, not metal pressed, and minera spirits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sorry HoboMonk, for this late response, but thank you for the information.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now



  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi Anna! Glad to have you join. That's some really nice work, and an excellent journal. Keep the updates coming, we LOVE to see pictures!
    • I suspect that the veneer is simply not flexible enough to form around the tight corners of the recess without splitting. You might try steaming or boiling the veneer to soften it. This would probably require a glue that cures in the presence of moisture, similar to the 'Gorrilla Glue' original. Veneering is not my thing, maybe a better answer will appear shortly.
    • We have a problem in MDF panel natural wood veneering.
      We intend to natural wood veneering cabinet and CNC machined 3d panel (with MDF core). We tested it with 0.3mm back fleeced wood veneer and the following glue:
      http://www.glue4u.com/index.php/data-sheets/tds-a-msds/jowat/436-150-90-tds
      We also use membrane hot press machine without vacuum capability. Unfortunately it didn’t work correctly. The wood veneer didn’t form well, especially in the concave area. You can see the final result of our failed test in the following link:
      http://postimg.org/image/cpt2ifz19
      http://postimg.org/image/urc7g8t25
      Can someone help me? Should I change the type of veneer or glue? Do you have any idea?
      Thank you in advance.  
    • Welcome to the forums Anna!  Pretty cool looking project!  Nice work as well!
    • I’m new to this forum, but have enjoyed looking at some of the other projects people are posting.  Thought I’d share a work in progress…   I’m working on an adjustable height table that will convert from a coffee table height to a desk/worktable height using a pulley system.  There’s a little model of the table below, along with some of the full size legs before shaping.    The model has rubber bands running between the dowels connecting the tops of the legs, but right now the plan is for that to be a pulley system on the full size version.   I’ve got part of the shaping on the legs done.     Still working on the mechanism that is going to hold these together in place of the dowels in the model.  Right not, I’m thinking a metal pipe with a threaded rod on the inside so I can add some wooden nuts to the outside to hold it tight.  I made a few prototypes of the “nuts” with a T-nut embedded in them to provide metal threads.  I don’t have pictures of that yet though.    The table top is a live edge tope inspired by the Scott Lewis cutting board from fine woodworking.  If you haven’t seen the video, it’s amazing…   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR9_CjQYZj4   I cut the slab below in half, but wanted to disguise the joint between the two pieces, especially because it’s such a figured board.     I made a curved template with a ½ inch gap using the router, and then used each side of the template to cut the curves on the top and bottom of the slabs.  This is the 2 pieces next to each other with the ½ inch gap in between.   Then I filled the gap with a ½ inch ribbon using maple, wenge, and cherry strips and clamped it up. I trimmed the excess with a Japanese saw and a block plane.       I’m planning to add another 2-3 ribbons, and tentatively planned them out with tape. I’ve cut the first one using another MDF template and a ¼ inch router bit with a guide bushing, cut about ¾ inch deep groove.  So far, I’ve got that once glued up and will add the rest of the ribbons in sequence.  You can see some of my templates at the top of the picture below.   Still a work in progress, but it’s been a fun project so far.  
  • Popular Contributors

  • Who's Chatting

    There are no users currently in the chat room