Derwood

Spar

9 posts in this topic

Hi guys,

Just finished a trestle picnic table along with trestle benches. I didn't stain the bottom of the table, benches I did though, not sure of my reasoning there. But anyhow, when I go to spar with the 20/80 min/spar, do I do the bottom also? Does this need protection as much?

Thanks,

D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, you need to put a seal coat on both sides unless you like a twisted, curly look.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

Just finished a trestle picnic table along with trestle benches. I didn't stain the bottom of the table, benches I did though, not sure of my reasoning there. But anyhow, when I go to spar with the 20/80 min/spar, do I do the bottom also? Does this need protection as much?

Thanks,

D

For outdoor uses, finish all sides.

Are you using spar urethane or spar varnish?

Blessings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys, thanks for your input, it was spar urethane btw, and I did the whole bit. Looks great considering it's pine lol, but in the long run I figure this saves me money.

I have to take the pine comment back. It was enjoyable to work with this time considering I prepped it all right and took no shortcuts. The end result, time consuming as it was, indeed was a pleasure to both work on and look at. Now I have to figure out how to put it back in my yard. Did this in a small workshop lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the end result. Bit rushed, taking up too much space, which is why I asked the seemingly dumb question I did. I ended up finishing the trestles and all else, at the expense of my sciatica lol. Man,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Note: The term "spar" refers to wooden boat parts, such as the mast and topside. It is NOT a particular type of finish.

So called, "Spar Urethane" is a consumer-grade polyurethane containing exterior varnish. It is not very durable.

Real Spar Varnish is usually a tung oil/phenolic resin varnish with UV inhibitors that is specially formulated for exterior wood applications. It is typically a "Long Oil" formulation that remains more flexible when it dries. It if far more durable than the cheaper consumer-grade knock-offs.

A good traditional Spar Varnish is available as a house brand at Ace Hardware stores. It is a real tung oil/phenolic resin varnish that performs well and is less costly than the high priced imports, such as Epifanes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah. I know that. USN Constitution was in my past. ;) Made my own mix with spar, real tung oil, not metal pressed, and minera spirits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sorry HoboMonk, for this late response, but thank you for the information.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now



  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I no it may be a turd but I would take it for free.  There has been times I would like to turn a spindle for something. Hope this lathe will get you by for now.
    • I have this model. Pretty awesome. I only really use it on stuff that gets painted though. General Finish High Performance works great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    • From what I've read,some guys have good luck with the HF lathes.  This does not appear to be one of those good luck stories.  If that's a current model, they might take it as an exchange, people say they have a very loose return policy.
    • Sell testicle.  Buy this.     It'll be worth it, I promise.
    • You guys are a terrible influence. So I have been making progress. I have 6 boards that are jointed and planed, and a couple more that are just jointed. As I said before, I'm just going for removing any bad twist or bows. Next up is straight line ripping done of the pieces. I made a new jig that was long enough, but I haven't tried it yet. Also, as I showed in my last post I now have parallel clamps for the glue up. I don't have a domino for alignment, so what did you guys do? My options are either just cauls, dowels, or a spline. I don't have a biscuit joiner, and don't think I'd use it. I was thinking a longer open time glue might be a good idea.@shaneymack the Lee valley glue claims a longer open time. How have you found it compared to something like titebond 2? Titebond extend doesn't seem to be easily obtained around here.
  • Popular Contributors

  • Who's Chatting

    There are no users currently in the chat room