Haha yes it has a practical joint. Whoever has a cleaner joint is buying tomorrow at happy hour. i cut three tonight. First two were damn gappy and ugly. This is the first decent one. Pinned with bamboo and one coat of ars. being not a hand tool guy, this was a pretty cool exercise. I'd definatey at least giving it a try. I changed it do a slight dovetail because on both the first two, the stop sign thing seemed really not strong. One wing actually snapped along the grain line when fitting it together. and I agree, this joint is strong as crap. The first time it slid home with only mild pressure, it just plain LOCKED.
I appreciated all the information. These wheels have rubber tires that were probably glued on by NASA! I don't think these tires were ever meant to be removed by any normal human being, without damaging the wheels. As much as I was trying to avoid this eventuality, I am going to face the music and send the wheels to Northfield. Wilbur, how does crowning the tires help with re-sawing?
I was going to say "what is the point? does this joint have a practical use?" but I thought I should actually make one first. fwiw I cut the tennon first. A pretty gappy effort, but I was rushing it a bit. However, despite all the gaps it is surprisingly solid, I guess with all that complexity some parts of the joint are bound to be good and tight. My first piece of advice is use a hardwood - what was I thinking using a softwood scrap to cut a joint like this! So, back to my original question ... does this joint have a practical use? Edit: Since you asked for tips - I thought I'd add some serious ones for you. 0) Make sure your two pieces of wood are perfectly square - and the same width/height. 1) Layout the tenon piece as accurately as possible (I just used a ruler and pencil - hence all the gaps). It doesn't really matter how you layout the stop-sign, since I recommend scribing this onto the mortice piece. 2) Then its fiddly work with the dovetail saw and paring chisel. 2a) Actually I used a coping saw to rough out the tenon, then pared it to shape with a chisel. 3) Once the tennon piece is cut, layout the neck of the mortice, and cut it out just as deep as the stub tennon below the stop-sign. 4) now you can slide the tennon piece onto the mortice piece and scribe in the shape of the stop-sign and the corner cut-outs. 5) Then it's more fiddly work with the dovetail saw and paring chisel. That's how I did it - no idea how you'd do it with a radial arm saw, belt-sander and axe.
These are the tile samples on the tile shops floor. I might just go paint grade to simplify they process and save the fancy wood for something else. The steam does seem like it could be a pain. Bathroom is 6'x11' shower is 3x6 at the end. Something like the attached pdf, although I've gone to a vessel sink since so I can have a couple drawers under the sink. FP_LAYOUT Layout1 (2) (1).pdf Free tip, Ctrl+Shift+minus or plus rotates a pdf on screen.