ScoFF

How aligned is acceptable? At what amount of misalignment would you start seeing issues and what would they be?

Thanks for the replies, but I think it comes down to testing a lineup to see what works best for me. I'm in Canada so testing BAT tools would be difficult but a blind mail order was what I was trying to avoid. I wasn't sure about the point of a sash saw, I googled it and it just mentioned doors and window sashes. Is it shaped differently (handle, angle) than the smaller tenon or carcase? I'm looking at smaller detail work or even just to crosscut/mitre ends of smaller workpieces, likely with a bench hook jig which is why I was thinking a pair of carcase saws, one files rip and the other xcut, or just a hybrid. I have the pair of veritas carcase saws and wanted to upgrade. I was aiming at 10-14" sizes for both. Then sash saw came up and I got confused. I'd hate to spend $300 on a hybrid sash saw all-purpose and then get the itch for a pair of dedicated carcase saws leaving the sash redundant.

Can someone give me a decent summary between the different types of hand saws? Bad Axe lists more choices than I had thought. Dovetail saw – self explanatory 10” carcase 12” hybrid DT/small tenon 12” carcase 14” sash 16” tenon 18” large tenon Say I eventually wanted 3 saws, keep in mind I have a large assortment of power tools and mostly prefer to use them: 1 small dedicated dovetail (just because) 1 larger saw to crosscut random pieces, from small ½” thick 2” wide scraps to 1” thick 6” wide boards (when I don’t want to use my tablesaw just to cut off a board). 16” large tenon? Filed crosscut? 1 saw to do mostly odd rip cuts for tenon (2” deep max) and also smaller finer cheek cuts. This would likely be a dual purpose fine cut saw. 12” hybrid DT/small tenon? X-cut or hybrid, not sure. Teeth count, no idea. I have no intention of ripping anything big, I have a good bandsaw for that. I appreciate using hand tools and want my hand skills to improve throughout my experience. For the majority of dimensioning I would mostly use my table saw or mitre saw. Sometimes I like to make finer cuts or crosscut when my tablesaw is set up for something or is covered in crap.

Any product meaning a guild build purchase or any product from the woodwhisperer store? I got your first finishing book, am I a member?

Marc, the order page says your free 3 month trial starts immediately, what access does it give you and what happens after the 3 months are over? You said once you're a guild member you're a member for life, I figured unless you renew you're no longer a member. I'm assuming if you don't re-subscribe you can still access past builds that you paid for or the ones in the term you've subscribed to but no other? I'm asking because if the 3 month trial starts now, and the Humidor project starts in October the trial is already 1/2 over by the time it starts and I'm wondering what happens afterwards (or during the build).

I have room for miter 1 saw in my shop and arsenal and am about to buy a Kapex. I’m choosing A Kapex because I have a basement shop and dust control is important to me, plus it’s a great saw that I’ll have for the rest of my lifetime hopefully. I have a Dewalt saw which I’ll be selling to help fund this purchase. My regular woodworking projects use tools that only ever touch clean hardwood, my miter saw is the one machine that ever gets to also see pressure treated wood for home reno, fencing, patio in the near future, a shed etc. My question is this, do you guys see a problem using a $1300 mitre saw for hacking up pressure treated wood, getting sap and whatever green treatment it has and then returning to fine woodworking? I know contractors use them all the time but it seems like I’m using a porche to go hunting. I suppose as long as you clean the blade and make sure you’re not cutting through staples it’s fine? How about those wheel around mitre saw tables that tilt the saw on it’s side? Will storing/wheeling the saw around mounted on it’s side throw it out of alignment or is this what a $1300 saw can handle?

I bought the TS75 because it wasn't thy much more money, I never wanted to regret not getti g the bigger saw and since I wasn't using it all day I didn't mind the extra weight to lug around. It also comes with the longer rail you have to consider. The 55 has a 4.58 foot long rail so ripping a 4 foot sheet of plywood and allowing for start/end overhang you'll barely have enough length. Speaking of buyers regret, you know the TSREQ is out? And I think the new 75 version is coming.

I have a workshop next to my HVAC. The way my layout is, I walked up my furnace into a seperate little room about 12x12'. There's a door put up directly in front of it so I can open and access the filters etc. the back of the furnace is in that little room where my workbench is, I do t do cutting here, just hand tools. It's also separated by a door. In my other area 2 feet from my walled up furnace is a 12x12' or so with all of my machines. The ducts are taped and covered with bulkheads and drywall. I have a 2hp dust collector and an air cleaner, also a Dylos monitor. I have a draft strip under the door that opens to the furnace and have a flap (tape) that covers the filter slot. The air suction here pulls the flap tight. No intake vents here, all shut. I also had a combustion PVC tube from my furnace sticking out. My manual said to leave it or pipe it outside so I extended it outside.

An anyone compare a Festool ETS with a Mikra?

I use a 12x12 granite floor tile from Lowes and put sanding screen on it, 180 grit I believe to do my lowest grit stone. Then I higher grit stone on the lower all the way up. I use pencil lines to see my progress, slurry to see if there's any dips - there never is. My stones are flat enough, they should suction cup together when using against each other. It's cheap and effective.

I've had my jointer for 3 years and I've yet to sharpen or flip (if they can) the knives!

I have a bed angle of 12 degrees and 25 degree bevel on my blade, I likely have a microbevel too. It is possible about the trailing end grain tearout causing the rubbing, I'll chamfer that end off before trimming the end grain from the opposite (starting) end and report back. I usually have to go at an angle to make it slice better.

Sometimes when I plane end grain, usually with my block plane I get a loud squeak as it moves across the wood, let's say oak. My plane is a Veritas and pretty sharp, not waxed and it cuts fairly well, anyone else get this?

I'm not liking the two wrench thing, how hard would it be for them to stick in a collet lock mechanism?