Router Table - Build or Buy for Pro workshop?


MarkMDBuildUK

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Hello all

 

Thanks for looking at my post, hopefully some of you can help?

 

Just wondered what you all thought on router table choice for a pro workshop? I’ve seen various models by the likes of Festool (the CMS router table), trend, and UJK, but they all tend to be on a metal frame, which although great if you fit on site and need to be portable, doesn’t seem like it will stand up to years of use in a workshop.

 

I’m favouring towards a 'build my own' table, with an MDF top torsion box, and a 10mm aluminium insert plate, and a storage unit underneath to keep the noise down etc. (similar to the one David Marks had on the Wood Whisperer David Marks shop tour).

 

What I’m asking is basically am I missing something? To me making my own makes more sense, but i would be interested to hear other people’s views. Also if people have made their own router tables, what are your experiences of different materials, insert plates, guide rails, dust extraction etc. :)

 

 

 

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What do you value more, your time or your money?  There are some great commercial tables out there...but they'll cost ya.  I wouldn't worry about the Festool holding up.  Incra and Bench Dog make good stuff, too.  

 

But if I were starting up a pro shop, I'd probably be looking at shapers before router tables.  I'd want both, but the shaper will save you lots of time if production efficiency is important to you.

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I couldnt imagine using a router table in a pro shop. I think it would be handy to have one for that very odd ball cut that couldnt be done on a shaper. Router tables are underpowered, messy and dont cut nearly as smooth as a shaper. As far as making or buying. For a pro shop making should be very simple. I would just make the actual top and buy a metal store bought plate or lift. But even a small 1.5 hp shaper with imported 3/4" spindle cutters is going to out perform any router table with the biggest routers made and cost close to the same or less.

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Thanks for the responses

Particle board/ eric1978: Yes agreed a shaper/spindle moulder long term is the plan, but I've got quite a bit of expense in purchasing other shop equipment for set up, and thought for at least the first 6 months, I would make use of my existing router, which is powerful enough to run in a table. As ive got some custom kitchens lined up to start off, I'm thinking a router and table will be fine for raised panel kitchen doors etc. But yes, actual hardwood exterior doors will definitely need something more meaty for profiles etc.

Krtwood: thanks for the tip, will check them out

I'm well impressed with this forum, people are so helpful, thanks a lot.

Think I'm defiantly going to go down the build my own router table route for now,

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Thanks for the responses

Particle board/ eric1978: Yes agreed a shaper/spindle moulder long term is the plan, but I've got quite a bit of expense in purchasing other shop equipment for set up, and thought for at least the first 6 months, I would make use of my existing router, which is powerful enough to run in a table. As ive got some custom kitchens lined up to start off, I'm thinking a router and table will be fine for raised panel kitchen doors etc. But yes, actual hardwood exterior doors will definitely need something more meaty for profiles etc.

Krtwood: thanks for the tip, will check them out

I'm well impressed with this forum, people are so helpful, thanks a lot.

Think I'm defiantly going to go down the build my own router table route for now,

 

I dont know how many kitchens you have lined up but a router even a 3.25 hp and router bits are not going to make it all that long especially with raised panels. You have to think about cutter life and motor life. With a big 3.25 HP router you would need to cut a raised panel in 2 to 4 passes depending on the profile. If your cutting twenty doors at 3 passes each that is like making 60 doors. Three kitchens at 20 doors would be more like 180 doors. You wont get that many lineal feet out a router panel raiser. The difference in cutter life alone will pay for a small shaper in your first few jobs. Add that to the fact that the cuts left by routers are not nearly as clean as a shaper your overall processing time has gone through the roof costing even more.

Personally I would think real hard about begging, borrowing or stealing the funds for at least a small shaper. :)

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Particle board

Thanks for the advice, you have definitely got me thinking now, and what I don't want to do is get mid build and realise that the router table is not up to the job. To be honest I've used shapers in the past, but have not got much experience on router tables, and I think I'm probably not appreciating the extra time and money it will take using a table router, getting a bit blinded by the cost difference. Saying that after looking on eBay etc there are some really good second hand spindle moulders/ shapers available.

Getting a spindle moulder/ shaper will also mean I can do exterior and interior doors straight from the off too.

Thanks for your advice, very much appreciated for your detailed response.

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Your welcome. I thought I would add something to think about. With routers when you make your cope cuts with hard wood you tend to get burning and burnishing. If they are your doors I suppose this is not an issue but if folks are paying for them you would not want to see this. Burning and burnishing in the glue joint reduces the strength and integrity of joint. 

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